Love at First Bite: A Sooji Halwa Odyssey in Ayuthia
As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm amber glow over the ancient city of Ayuthia, my daughters and I found ourselves seated in a humble food kiosk, a hidden gem named Uncle Aurora’s. The air was heavy with the tantalizing aroma of Indian spices mingling with the night’s breeze. The soft fluorescent light lent an ethereal gleam to the surroundings, illuminating a dish that would forever change the course of our culinary journey — the legendary Sooji Halwa.
Swathed in a golden ghee blanket, the halwa glistened like a treasure under the moon’s embrace. Bits of cashews and pistachios adorned its surface, their textures promising a delightful crunch. Amidst the nuts, I wagered, lay a hidden crushed cardamom pod, releasing an aroma that set our stomachs rumbling in anticipation. The sight was nothing short of mesmerizing, and it was then, in that unassuming moment, that I knew I had encountered love at first sight — or rather, love at first bite.
Six years had passed since that serendipitous evening in Ayuthia, Thailand, where our paths crossed with this Indian vegan food kiosk owned by the enigmatic Uncle Aurora. It was a love affair that had traveled through countless miles and cultures, lingering in the most unexpected corners of our globe-trotting adventures. My daughters and I were seasoned travelers, traversing the tapestry of Southeast and South Asia, yet none of our expeditions had prepared us for the romance that sparked in the presence of a simple yet extraordinary dessert.
Our journeys had always been fueled by an insatiable curiosity, an exploration of places both distant and proximate. Thailand, with its familiar greetings and a certain warmth reminiscent of our Peninsular home, had swiftly etched its place in our hearts. Yet, it was not just the country’s embrace that had us enchanted; it was the discovery of Sooji Halwa, a delicacy from afar, that solidified our bond.
In the midst of our ventures, life had taken a turn. In 2012, I bid farewell to my full-time job, embarking on a temporary hiatus to embrace a different kind of adventure — one with my daughters as my companions. It was during this juncture that Ayuthia beckoned to us, its name resonating with echoes of Ayodhya, a touchstone of Indian mythology. With echoes of Lord Shri Ram’s sojourn in this historical city, we were lured to its tranquil streets.
The journey from the modernity of Swarnabhoomi Airport to Ayuthia’s historical grandeur felt like a bridge between different worlds. Industries gave way to lush countryside as we embarked on the path less traveled. As the scenery unfolded, a flood’s remnants reminded us of nature’s potent force, juxtaposing the city’s resilience against the backdrop of its ancient ruins. Our tuk-tuk driver, a local sage, spun tales of cosmic retribution and political turmoil, leaving us to ponder the delicate threads that wove the fabric of this city’s history.
Nestled within the arms of Ayuthia’s past, our stay at the Old Palace Hotel felt like a time capsule of cultural coalescence. The shrine adjacent to the hotel spoke of devotion, adorned with Hindu deities and the roots of a tree cradling the legend of Lord Buddha’s visage. Our chalet offered spacious respite, a canvas for our memories to paint.
Ayuthia’s pace was unhurried, an invitation to explore at leisure. Wats of ancient grandeur beckoned, their tales whispered through the labyrinthine streets. Our tuk-tuk rides were an adventure of their own, a dance with the city’s traffic that defied logic yet adhered to its own harmonious rhythm. As the day segued into night, we savored Thai cuisine — the resort’s culinary artistry ensuring every dish felt like a familiar hug from home.
The following day beckoned with promise, the tuk-tuk our chariot for another voyage. It was then that a daring decision led us onto the gentle ripples of River Chao Phraya, a cruise aboard a hand-rowed sampan. With no life jackets and only the seasoned boatwoman’s expertise guiding us, we navigated the currents, embracing the thrill of uncertainty. The river’s banks painted a vivid tableau of daily life, a juxtaposition of kitchens and lavatories that cascaded their offerings into the water. As a speedboat’s wake baptized us with urban tributaries, we marveled at life’s intricacies that streamed past.
Wat Mahatat emerged as an oasis along our voyage, its presence a testament to time’s imprint. Docking was an adventure in itself, as we stepped onto roughly cemented ground, the boat’s gentle rocking not without its trials. Yet, this journey was a tapestry woven with moments — the caress of the river breeze, the echoes of history whispered by the boatwoman, and the journey’s crescendo — our first encounter with the culinary symphony of Uncle Aurora’s Sooji Halwa.
Night descended, and our cravings birthed a plan for a night city tour with a dosa destination. Uncle Aurora’s kiosk welcomed us with familiarity, its low stature a nod to the treasures it concealed. Seated by a window, we were greeted by a North Indian elder who, upon discovering our roots, shared recommendations for dosa. A symphony of flavors danced before us, and as the last morsel vanished, the stage was set for an encore — Sooji Halwa.
In a bowl of halwa, I found myself transported. A spoonful unveiled a heavenly odyssey, its richness balanced with subtlety, its aroma a fragrant embrace. Cardamom’s whisper, nuts’ crescendo, and the ghee’s golden melody created an ensemble that orchestrated a serenade for my senses. Eyes closed, I reveled, only to open them to my daughters’ chuckles, the bowl now empty. Uncle Aurora’s laughter mirrored their glee, as he unveiled a second helping, unwittingly scripting our destiny.
Days blended into each other, Ayuthia’s charms entwined with Uncle Aurora’s halwa. The city’s ancient wats unveiled their tales, and at each chapter’s end, the kiosk beckoned. The halwa became our daily indulgence, a dessert that transcended borders and language. As our departure loomed, a heartfelt farewell marked our exit, Uncle Aurora’s invitation hanging in the air — return as guests, embrace the halwa’s daily melody.
Our tuk-tuk companion bid us adieu too, bearing Uncle Aurora’s goodwill. Back in Kuala Lumpur, the quest to recreate the halwa began. Failed attempts and relentless research paved the way to success, the consistency and color aligning with memory. The halwa now graced our offerings at a nearby temple, a signature dessert that earned the praises of devotees and the echoes of joy.
As the years flowed, our love affair with Sooji Halwa only deepened. In its embrace, we found a connection that transcended time and distance, a testament to the unspoken language of flavours and memories. And so, the tale of Love at First Bite: A Sooji Halwa Odyssey in Ayuthia, remains etched in the annals of our journey, a testament to the moments that shape our lives, one delectable bite at a time.
Would you like the recipe? Find it here.