Lincoln’s Christmas Spirit
Lincoln’s Christmas Market — one the UK’s longest-running festive fairs
“Fröliche Weinnachten!” booms the greeting from the overhead tannoy speakers as we climb Lincoln’s Steep Hill.
“Merry Christmas to you too,” shouts a man in the crowd in front of us.
We’ve travelled to Lincoln to experience their famous Christmas Market, in the hope of finding a little Christmas spirit. Although, if I’m honest, Christmas shopping is not my idea of fun. I usually leave it until Christmas Eve. Perhaps wandering around one of Europe’s largest Christmas markets will get me in the festive spirit.
It doesn’t take long for the evening atmosphere to start working its magic. The twinkling festive lights, carols and jingles, a humorous crowd and the warm glow of Lincoln Cathedral’s central tower, lit up like a beacon, make it feel far more special than a typical shopping trip.
Thankfully, it’s not cold, but if it were we wouldn’t feel it. As road names go, Steep Hill won’t be prosecuted by Trading Standards, because it is just that — steep! Luckily, there are plenty of wonderful shop windows to pause and press our noses against, should we need to stop and catch our breath.
Steep Hill was awarded the title of Britain’s Best Street in 2012 and is packed with lovely, quaint independent shops, huddled tightly together, so they don’t fall down the narrow, cobbled road. There’s a Dickensian atmosphere, as shopkeepers come out onto the street to attract our attention.
“Get your Sea Salt Fudge here!” cries a young chap from Roly’s Fudge Shop. “Try before you buy!” A plate with several small, succulent broken-up pieces is thrust in our direction. Well, it would be rude not to!
Who’d have thought the sweetness and saltiness would work so well? I know which of my relations would like that. Out comes my wallet. Look, I’ve started my Christmas shopping already!
At the top of Steep Hill is Castle Hill, bustling with stalls and traders, in wooden chalets, neatly trimmed with lights, holly, fir tree branches and festive decorations. Our eyes widen with excitement. The Christmas Market is one wonderful festive theme park.
“Chocolate spanners, pliers and bolts,” another stallholder calls out. “Make your own chocolate toolbox.”
A chocolate toolbox? Really? Drawn to the wooden chalet, we see rows of lifelike tools all made out of cocoa confectionery. I know just the person, who’s always in their shed, who would like that. That’s another present crossed off my list.
There’s so much to look at, from craft stalls with wooden gifts and intricate earrings to multi-coloured stained glass candle holders, awash with colour. I think I could get most of my Christmas shopping done here!
Lincoln’s Christmas Market first began in 1982, when they asked traders from their German twin town of Neustadt an der Weinstrasse to come over to the city. That first market only had eleven stalls in the Castle Square. Ever since then, the market has grown and expanded, a bit like my waistline in December some would say. We’ve over 250 different stalls to explore this evening.
Our noses catch the tempting spicy aroma of cinnamon. German Glühwein! Other aromas, such as cloves, citrus and a hint of vanilla rise from the steaming cups being passed to expectant shoppers. It doesn’t take long before we’re wrapping our fingers around our own cups, and that comforting Christmas warmth is slipping down our throats. I can feel the Christmas spirit within me growing.
British mulled wine traditionally uses red wine, but some areas of Germany use white wine, or even wine made from other fruits, like cherries and blueberries.
The Germans love their aromas, because the next stall along is one bouquet of citrus fragrances. The marquee walls are bedecked with ring and heart-shaped wreaths, constructed of twigs and decorated with dried oranges, lemons and limes. I close my eyes and inhale deeply. It’s heavenly. I’m brought back to the present by a request for my wallet. Apparently, the heart-shaped wreath will look lovely on our front door.
From here we follow the steady stream of festive shoppers through the open gated mouth of Lincoln Castle’s main entrance. Inside there’s a huge arena full of stalls. One sells German biscuits, known as Weihnachtsplätzchen. These come in all shapes and sizes. Made from gingerbread, many are spiced further with cinnamon, lemon, lime and orange peel, and cardamon. I know who’d like those. I can’t believe how much Christmas shopping I’m getting done.
Barely are the goodies in my bag when the sizzling sound of sautéing sausages attracts my attention, and the sweetness in the air from those special biscuits is replaced with a bratwurst-baking bouquet.
Dressed in national German costume, the stallholders busy themselves cooking these tasty long sausages on a giant circular barbecue and serving them, piping hot, in soft white rolls. Having worked up an appetite climbing Steep Hill, we’re quickly served and are soon savouring the delights of this very German hotdog.
Tucking into our roll-wrapped bratwurst gives us an opportunity to take in the sights a bit more. Lincoln Castle recently underwent a facelift, and it is now a fantastic place to explore. It’s possible to walk around the top of the medieval walls, something we plan on doing if we get time. Stretching for a third of a mile, they offer amazing views across the city and the county.
The castle is also home to Lincoln’s Victorian Prison, and it wasn’t just the inmates who were locked in. Some of the staff, including the prison warden and the nurse, lived on the premises and had to get permission if they wanted to leave and visit friends or relatives!
It’s a must for Downton Abbey fans because Lincoln Prison was used as York Prison when John Bates, the Earl of Grantham’s valet, served time when he was falsely accused of murdering his first wife.
With our sausage-craving satisfied, it’s time to move on, for there is still so much to see. A clever one-way system leads us through the castle grounds to The Lawn, packed with more marquees, and stalls. There’s every kind of gift you can imagine, from soap to candles, beads and scarves, local Lincolnshire Plum bread and even Christmas jumpers. One is taken from the rack and held against my chest for size. I’m Scrooge it says on the front. Everyone laughs. I might not be full of Christmas spirit yet, but I’m not that bad.
I can prove it too because there are many worthy charities out collecting tonight. Thankfully, we brought lots of loose change with us, ideal for dropping into collection boxes as we pass by. Even the local brass band are collecting for a local children’s charity as they fill the air with a rendition of Jingle Bells.
Further round we hear the joyful jingles of the fairground, and high in the sky, competing with the cathedral’s towers, is a giant, white Ferris wheel. There must be a fantastic view from the top, but only if you have a head for heights! I much prefer the more calming charms of the colourful carousel.
We amble through to Lincoln’s Cathedral Quarter, with its independent shops, all with tempting window displays, and soon find ourselves wandering through the impressive Exchequer Gate to the front entrance of Lincoln Cathedral. Floodlights illuminate it’s intricate stonework, glowing in golden splendour.
John Ruskin once said, “I have always held and proposed against all comers to maintain that the Cathedral of Lincoln is out and out the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles.” Judging by the mix of Norman arches and Gothic stonework, I’d have to agree.
However, the cathedral has had a few redevelopment opportunities over the years. Early in the 12th century a huge fire destroyed the original wooden roof, and then disaster struck later, in 1185, when an earthquake nearly ruined the building. In the 14th century, the cathedral was the tallest building in Europe.
Visiting the Christmas Market, with many stalls right outside the cathedral’s front entrance, means a visit to the cathedral is a must. We slip inside to find the choir singing Hark! The Herald Angels Sing. Their melodic voices and the perfect acoustics encourage everyone to join in. There’s something special about singing Christmas carols in a Cathedral.
Half an hour later, we file out through the main entrance still humming While Shepherds Watched Their Flocks with huge smiles on our faces.
It seems Lincoln’s Christmas Market has done it. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed doing my Christmas shopping, so it only seems right to celebrate with another cup of mulled wine to warm our hands as we head back down Steep Hill. We wish the numerous, friendly marshals a Merry Christmas, and I raise my cup to Lincoln. For it’s wonderful market has helped me find the Christmas spirit … and no, I’m not just referring to the mulled wine!
Merry Christmas, everyone!