Let’s explore the magical town of Matera in Italy

The fascinating stone labyrinth of Basilicata

Southern Italy offers completely different travel experiences compared to the more elegant and organized north. One of the least known regions of Italy is Basilicata, formerly known as Lucania. Of the wondrous travel destinations of Basilicata, the most famous and equally extraordinary is definitely Matera, the natural fortress dug in stone above a deep ravine.

Few even heard of Matera before it was chosen as the European capital of culture in 2019. Known as one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, as well as the “underground town”, Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1993. The sight of the rock dwellings perched above the chasm is truly stunning and breathtaking.

To reach and visit Matera, one of the best options would be to land at the airport in Bari, one of the biggest cities in southern Italy. From the Bari central station, there are trains leaving towards Matera operated by the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane company, a ticket being around 5 euros. The trains leave from an over ground terminal that can be found in the northern part of the station, in a smaller building.

The trip of only 65 km takes about an hour and a half, yet the things you will get to see and experience are worth the wait. From the Matera train station, there are signs towards the historical area known as Sassi di Matera, located just 5 minutes away.

It would be difficult to list everything you can visit and see in Matera, the whole city being a big open air museum, with vistas and panoramas at every corner and from any balcony.

There are several tourist paths that connect the main attractions, but my first recommendation is to explore Matera by getting lost in its charming stone labyrinth, following alleys that sometimes prove dead ends and you find yourselves in someone’s backyard or discover a secret terrace above the city or the ravine.

Largely speaking, the old town is located along the edge of the ravine, divided in two, the Sasso Barisano and the Sasso Caveoso. You will most likely visit the first which is also the more developed and impressive side of Matera. The best place to start the adventure is the Piazza Vittorio Veneto square, a short walk from the train station.

From here, you can admire a first panorama of the whole city below, from a large balcony located next to the entrance of the underground cistern tour. This so called Belvedere Guerricchio point is truly one of the highlights of Matera and a great way to start the visit, with old houses and alleys displayed like a strange Lego game, the cathedral overlooking everything from above.

From here, wherever you footsteps might go. You will uncover the same huge labyrinth where is almost impossible to use a map. There are so many alleys, stairs, passages and inner courtyards, placed on several levels that you will give up all orientation at some point.

You will most likely discover many less known places, unique panoramas and secret treasures of the city. Hundreds and thousands of troglodyte dwellings, dug in the rock face millennia ago, were abandoned in the 60’s, when the modernization project started and the new city was built.

It’s a true and tough adventure to explore the whole destination and everything it has to offer. Sasso Barisano is the more developed are, resembling a built city, although most structures were carved into the rock, aspect visible in the few that are open to visitors.

In contrast, the Sasso Caveoso still keeps its rudimentary look, illustrating the authentic life in old Matera for regular people. The homes were actual caves, often fitted for humans and livestock, storage areas and others.

Besides solitary exploration of the streets, there are some interesting attractions that are worth a visit, including the Cathedral (located in Piazza del Duomo), dell’Arcivescovado Pallace, St. Peter and Paul Church, Lanfranchi Pallace, San Domenico Church, Underground Cisterns, San Pietro Caveoso Church, Ridola National Museum and others. Inside the Casa Grotta del Barisano and Grotta del Vico Solitario, you can admire two examples of traditional and authentic homes of old Matera.

Another important feature of Matera is represented by the cave churches found throughout the city and especially in the cliff over the ravine. There is a cave church circuit of Matera and it is worth visiting a few of them. In fact, possibly the most beautiful panorama of this impressive place can be admired from over the ravine, with several belvedere points.

The trip over the ravine was not short or easy, as in 2017 the direct route was closed down, the other option being a 5 km walk following the road out of the city and then a local road ascending close to the ravine. The canyon area is filled with caves and grottos, some housing old churches.

Beyond all words and descriptions of Matera, seeing this unique place is a complex cultural experience. It is a fascinating destination where past and present are intertwined to form a future that seems amazing.