Joburg
S.Africa
Our first visit to Joburg or Jozi, as it known popularly, was 8 months ago. I had always wanted to go to S.Africa, as my parents had taken me there as a baby. The moment we finalised our plans, instead of rejoicing with me my friends, began to caution and warn me to be careful and stay safe. By the time we left, I realised that travelling to Africa was not a priority with most of my acquaintances.
Fortunately we landed at 3 pm and were out of the airport soon enough and found our tall, lanky really old white S.African driver waiting for us, as we got out with our luggage. Despite his age, he grabbed both our suitcases and told us to follow him to the car. On our way to the car, a man approached us stating that he could help us with the suitcases and our driver turned around and snapped at him to go away, telling us not to get into any dialog and quickly get into the car.
By the time I was in the car, I was clutching onto my bag for life and pretty troubled by the tone used by the driver and the subsequent response of the poor local who had offered to help. If you snap and intimidate someone, he is obviously not going to take it quietly.
It was a one hour drive home and we started chatting and heard his version of history. Being an old timer, he had still not come to terms with the present day reality and was so full of anger, and fear at the way the tables had turned. He told us about how unsafe it was to live here, and how we must be careful while walking around.
Our daughter, who had been staying in the city for a couple of months had been telling us that she took an uber all the time and I mentioned this to the driver who then told us how unsafe that was, and by the time he dropped us off, I was convinced I wanted to take the return flight home.
Neha assuaged my fears saying the driver had issues of his own and was not willing to accept change. The past, and apartheid were things he grew up with and hence lived fearfully today.
The next morning we called for an uber and what a pleasant drive we had to our destination. Not only was the driver polite and respectful, he pointed out all the landmarks on the way and did not move away until we were inside our home. This is something we noticed during our stay, that drivers would stand guard until you unlocked and entered the house, and it was reassuring that you were not alone on a deserted street. That is a precaution one has to take in Jozi, which holds true to many cities in the world.
Also once its dark, you definitely don’t walk on the streets as you may get mugged.
We spent three weeks in the city and we enjoyed every moment of our stay. Eight months later we decided to return and spend some more time with our daughter.
Our flights were delayed, and finally we landed at joburg at 2 am instead of 4 pm. I was not scared this time round and got into the car with a confidence I lacked the last time.
Our driver was not as chatty and we were unaware that we had landed on a day there was some tension in the townships, amongst the South Africans and migrant population, with armed battles ensuing.
Obviously the delay of our flight impacted him more than it did us and he was in a hurry to get us home and go back to his family.
This visit we had so much fun. We had done the touristy sights the last time around and our focus now was on experiences.
Eating out in joburg is satisfying and less expensive than so many cities we have visited. Emphasis was on eating right and there was such an array of choices that every experience was better than the last. We ate organic, healthy vegan food and were amazed at the choices available.
On my last visit my daughter had randomly chosen a hairdresser from the net for me for a haircut. What an amazing experience I had at “Gorgeous Hair”, down in Sandton, Joburg.
Sam not only understood my needs, and deftly redid my hair knocking off a couple of years off me, thanks to her styling. Sam was so effusive about the benefits of switching over to organic colour that I was convinced to make the switch and am now an ardent fan.
We stayed in touch, thanks to whats app and one of my first appointments on arrival this time was at “ Gorgeous Hair.”
I have to say that I felt so at home with Sam. She was warm, affectionate, caring and in the twenty days I spent in Jozi, I marvelled at how I acquired a friend, I know I am going to cherish lifelong. Despite her busy schedule she would message, checking on us and taking us to “ Leafy Greens”… her fetish for eating right, less and organic has definitely rubbed off and hopefully will last and do me good.
I also joined pilate classes in a studio nearby and was pleasantly surprised to meet so many friendly and interesting ladies of all ages. My teacher Kristin was amazingly energetic and her enthusiasm was infectious. She would unlock the grilled door (which is unfortunately a reality you live with in Joburg) and give me a welcome hug which made me so comfortable and at home.
Ofcourse seeing her fitness motivated me, and the one hour of moving between the mat and reformer swiftly passed by and energised me for the rest of the day.
We would have long chats and I realised that people all over the world are the same… however, what did strike me was the positivity and enthusiasm that most S Africans exhibit. I always left the class happy, and the concern they showed us touched us immensely. They would suggest things to do and next day check on how our day had gone by, genuinely interested in our well being.
S Africans are fitness oriented I learnt … seeing so many exercise options available at every nook and corner. They begin their day very early and both Sam and kristen would start their appointments as early as 5.30/ 6 am.
Once day light fades, shops close and you don’t see people on the streets. That is a reality you live with in Joburg, but the quality of life is amazing. People do not wear jewellery, expensive watches but invest on beautiful homes and private security.
Lifestyle is the buzzword in Joburg. Its all about the right priorities and living well. People invest heavily on their houses, gardens, pools and meeting up for braai on weekends.
Malls are safe havens. You don’t have to worry about your belongings being snatched or staying on guard. Streets get deserted but eating places, restaurants at malls, movies are buzzing till late hours.
“The Exclusive Bookstores”, was what took us back to the Malls time and again. It included an amazing cafe and an endless variety of books and comfortable seating arrangements encouraging you to browse, and read. We spent a lot of time sipping healthy rooibos tea and reading for hours with no one interrupting or frowning at you. Anybody and everybody was encouraged to read and buying a book was secondary.
Uber’s are convenient and an easy mode of transport. The Gautrain was swift, safe and fastest way to get to Pretoria from Joburg.
Its a well developed country, yet the disparity is still stark and one of the reasons for crime. There is unemployment, a huge migrant population, and townships are overcrowded and not the safest places to live in.
The rich can afford private security, which is quite a fad. Every house you pass by will have a placard, stating the security company safeguarding the house. Houses are protected by elaborate electric fence and alarm systems, with quick response teams responding in few minutes to alarms being set off, real or accident
However the reality is that as long as things go well; its heaven. If you come to terms with this kind of security, living in Joburg can be enjoyable.
I hope that things change for the better, and every citizen of Joburg enjoys and sees the city the way I did.
Africa is a vast continent and I have had the good fortune of having travelled to Mali in the west, and kenya in Central Africa. Each country is as diverse as can be and unfortunately people have the misconception that all the countries in Africa are similar.
If asked, I would recommend every one to visit South Africa as it is has an abundance of flora, fauna, wildlife, tourist sites and some of the most amazing people I have met.
Photos taken by the Author