TRAVEL

Getting Naked in Japan

Shedding my Inhibitions in an Onsen at Mount Fuji

There is one custom that should not be missed from your agenda while you’re in Japan and that is to experience an Onsen; a traditional spa where you leave your modesty at the door to broil your naked self in the ‘Ow! Ow! Ow! It’s-so-hot-it-hurts-water’ for a long, indulgent soak.

It has been practised for thousands of years. The discovery of some of these magical hot springs were stumbled upon by ancient hunters, and in time became popular when Buddhism arrived in 552 AD. It was believed that by immersing one’s body in to the ‘divine’ bubbling waters, the bather would be purified of all sins.

Spirituality aside, the health benefits of bathing in an Onsen stemmed from 1709 when a doctor (Goto Konzan) discovered the medical effectiveness of curing chronic diseases such as rheumatism and hypertension, as well as treatment for external injuries, post-operative recovery, and rehabilitation.

My research of Onsens didn’t stretch very far prior to visiting Japan. The mad deadline at work rendered my Lonely Planet book untouched and therefore useless. Thus, my western ignorance assumed that an Onsen was the Japanese word for a jacuzzi, a big tub of bubbly happiness.

My studio apartment in Singapore lacked the luxury of a bath so the thought of soaking in a tub while watching the sunset over Mount Fuji was an added bonus.

‘You realise you have to be naked!’ my sister scoffed at my naivete, watching me put on my swimming costume. Easy for her to say! She was sitting this one out due to a badminton accident that severed her Achilles tendon, leaving her in a medical boot.

I laughed dismissively at her statement.

Come on, surely not!

The thought of lying completely stark naked in a tub full of perfect strangers seemed like a shocking idea!

The image of seeing other people’s dangly bits up close and personal, made me shudder. And, no-one needed to see me in the buff either.

However, I didn’t want to relinquish another Onsen experience. Having experienced our own private Onsen, comfortably in our bathers, on Day One at the Mount Fuji View Hotel in Fujisan, I was completely hooked. I already imagined these magical minerals renewing the thousands of ageing cells in my 41-year-old body. I was living my own real life ‘Cocoon’ movie.

‘No-one is going to see you ever again!’ my sister reminded me.

This was true. And even if they did, they wouldn’t recognise me in my ‘Yeti’ winter attire. It was Boxing Day in Mount Fuji, and ‘someone’ had turned down the temperature.

This was even more nerve wracking than backpacking solo around Asia a year ago!

I wandered in and out of the spa on several occasions cursing my British reserve. I was being ridiculous! Besides, it was gone 10pm — hopefully I would have the bath all to myself.

Once I was sure I had entered the ‘Female Only’ spa, there were clear instructions printed in large text inside the dressing room — words to the effect of ‘Get rid of your inhibitions and prepare to bare ALL!’

Well, what the heck… What happens in Japan, stays in Japan.

I stripped off, placed my Yukata robe (cotton kimono) and swimsuit into a basket on a shelf, and covered my modesty with the tiniest wash cloth, before darting towards the entrance of the wet area.

To my utter dismay, I was not alone.

A stark-naked Japanese woman was cleansing herself on a low plastic stool. She was so absorbed in scrubbing herself that she didn’t even glance up as I scarpered to the stall furthest away from her.

The area was essentially a big, open shower room with floor to ceiling white tiles, brightly lit to aid you in to washing every nook and cranny thoroughly. Each shower hose was fixed at low level with a low plastic stool placed in front of it to demarcate each individual washing zone.

To add to the situation, or to improve it depending on your perspective, two walls of the spa were mirrored. This meant you either faced the added embarrassment of seeing your naked self while squatting, or you made sure to thoroughly clean between every crease!

In one corner was a large 5m x 5m steaming hot pool and on the other, a glass door leading to a large landscaped hot spring outside.

Two more middle-aged Japanese women entered the space and despite numerous vacant stools elsewhere, they sat two stools away from me. They seemed completely unfazed in their naked skin and engaged in lively chatter as if they were at a mid-morning coffee meet-up, casually washing themselves down between their legs throughout their entire conversation.

Unfamiliar with the rituals, I half watched them out of the corner of my eye and half looked away fearing I might look like a pervert.

Was I washing myself thoroughly enough? Did I have to shampoo my hair too? Should I tie my hair up? Had I rinsed off enough? And what was the purpose of the plastic bowl? There were so many etiquettes to follow.

My fingertips were getting wrinkly. Enough of the procrastination. It was time to brave it…

The indoor pool was already occupied by the solo woman and not quite ready to share my nakedness, I placed the small towel over my private parts and ventured to the unoccupied pool outside.

As soon as I pushed the door open, the gush of icy cold air plunged me in to momentary shock.

Holy ____ ! The thermometer confirmed it was -10 degrees Celsius outside. I almost dived headfirst in to the steaming hot pool, enticed by its welcoming heat. But realising I was under the watchful eye of my female judges, I did as instructed and glided in to the pool as slowly and demurely as I possibly could.

With the soothing embrace of Fuji’s magic water invigorating my body, I relaxed in to my nakedness. The experience was unforgettable. Here I was at Mount Fuji, a destination I’ve always dreamed of visiting, lying in a natural spring under a never-ending spread of twinkling stars.

The moment was short lived though. The two chatty women decided to join me. To my horror they stepped in, full frontal, sporting a 1970’s style hairy bush. I looked away, face flushing, hoping they would quickly find the water too hot and leave. Unfortunately they were relishing in it, sighing contentedly and settling in for what appeared to be a lengthy soak.

I stayed in, waiting, desperately looking like I was absorbed in the twinkling stars above, unwilling to expose myself to these women. My bladder started talking to me. And five minutes later, it was demanding immediate attention. I had to get out.

I tried to compose myself and slipped out as elegantly as I could, using the towel to cover my modesty. Unfortunately, my attempt at Memoirs of a Geisha elegance was far from successful as I slipped and slid my way to the bathroom.

Mortified, I returned to my room, grateful to see my fully clothed sister. I chuckled at the absurdity of it all. Despite the saggy boobs and hairy bushes, it was certainly a hot spring experience I would never forget.

Are you planning to use an Onsen for the first time? Read my tips below to know how –

• The majority of public Onsen do not allow you to enter if you have a tattoo, or a visible piercing. If your tattoo isn’t too big, cover it up with a plaster… Remove any piercings.
• This may seem obvious, but the water temperature is generally plus 39 degrees celsius so it’s not advisable if you’re pregnant.
• You should bring a large towel with you for drying yourself with afterwards as well as a small cloth to wash yourself with. The latter also helps to cover your bits and bobs!
• Public onsen have a separate male and female sections. Make sure you enter the correct section!
• Remove your shoes or slippers before entering the spa.
• Strip off in the dressing area and leave your things in the locker (if available) or basket.
• Most Onsen require you to get in to your birthday suit. If you’re modest, just remember that no-one is going to be looking at your bits. In fact, you’ll probably get stared at unfavourably if you enter the bath in your bathers.
• The shower area will have a low stool, small bowl, and detachable shower. Shampoo, conditioner and body soap is usually provided.
• Washing yourself is a necessary and critical step that should not be missed. The thing to remember is that the bath is not to cleanse yourself in. Wash thoroughly, shampoo your hair if you’re letting it loose and rinse off well.
• Don’t splash, jump, or dive like it is a pool! An Onsen is for relaxation, not for play!
• Once you’ve used your washcloth to cleanse yourself, don’t let it enter the bath. It is considered unhygienic and deemed to ‘contaminate’ the water. The custom is to place this on your head instead.
• In order to warm your body to the core, it is more effective to enter the bath three times with breaks in between rather than bathing once for a long period of time. In general, bathing periods of 5 minutes, 8 minutes and 3 minutes are recommended.
• Once you’ve been sufficiently broiled, rinse yourself off at the showers and pat yourself down with your small washcloth. You don’t have to be completely dry but just don’t be dripping wet when you head back to the dressing area.
• Put on your clean clothes or Yukata, take your belongings, remember your shoes and that’s it! You’re on your way to regenerating!