Island In The Sun — Dreams Of Capri

The emerald island of Capri and its sublime beauty

Like a dream come alive from the imagination of the gods, the island of Capri continues to capture the hearts and minds of travelers who arrive in search of atonement. Approaching the marvelous port of Marina Grande from the sea, you notice the steep green slopes of the island, dotted with white villas surrounded by orange and lemon orchards. Offering inspiration to painters and poets alike, a maze of little idyllic alleys shaded by colorful blossoms tie everything together.

For a passionate traveler landing in Capri, there are two sides of the island. First, there is the exquisite and luxurious Capri, with its posh hotels and pretentious restaurants, high brand stores and elite holiday makers in search of the most stylish destinations of the world. But for those that take the time to get out of the mainstream and explore further, there is also a more authentic Capri, drawn in shades of blue and green, a wilder and unspoiled experience.

Thousands arrive each day of the year, all in search of their own dreams and expectations. Some disembark with shiny suitcases and smart casual outfits, ready to relax in one of the famous Capri villas, while others hop off with backpacks and hiking boots ready to take the island on foot. Tiny as may be, the emerald island boasts an overwhelming amount of astonishing sights and panoramas, many of them only accessible by foot or on a boat.

I set out to experience as much as possible during my day trip to Capri, catching the first ferry from Naples at 8 in the morning. Less than an hour later, the little bay of Marina Grande and the sumptuous villas of Capri Town were glistening in the morning sun. It was a hot and cloudless end of March day, filled with so many ineffable emotions. I walked for about 25 km in just 7 hours, trekking the length of the island and trying to burn the torrid Capri sun into my heart.

Getting to Capri from Naples

Reaching the beautiful heaven of Capri is quite simple actually. There are frequent ferries from Naples and Sorrento that arrive at Marina Grande harbor, more so during the tourist season. A ticket for the Naples ferry that takes less than an hour is between 20 and 30 Euros per way. If you are only visiting for one day, consider buying the return ticket when you arrive, as they sell really fast and you might get stranded on the island.

Although I was exhausted by 4 pm and was ready to get back, the first two ferries were fully booked and I had to wait for the last one at 6 pm. As soon as you set foot on the island, you must have a tight itinerary, as there’s an overwhelming amount of things to see and do. Right from Marina Grande, there are island tour boats offering a 2 hour cruise around Capri, with a stop at the famous Blue Grotto. Tickets for the tours start at about 20 Euros per person, while the entry to the grotto is a separate 15 Euros ticket (2024).

Exploring the island on foot

If you rather explore the island on foot, you first have to get to Capri Town by either taking the bus, the funicular or making your way uphill along a small alley that takes you to the old town square in 15–20 minutes. The small buses of the island are the only way to reach farther destinations, apart from the private roofless taxis. The buses go from Marina Grande to Capri and Anacapri, Capri to Anacapri and Marina Piccola, Anacapri to Marina Piccola and Punta Carena lighthouse. Each one-way ticket costs 2 Euros, but during the summer they get extremely crowded.

Most destinations can also be reached on foot if you have the time and energy, the hardest trail being the almost one thousand stairs of the Phoenician Steps, between Capri Town and Anacapri. These are the main settlements of the island, with Anacapri set on the higher and wilder eastern side. There are several hiking discovery paths that connect stunning sights and panorama points. Most of them will take 1–3 hours and it’s totally worth exploring at least two or three of them.

There are few fascinating attractions right in Capri Town that are worth discovering, starting with the idyllic Gardens of Augustus, with its statues, fountains and colorful flowers overlooking the sea. Nearby, the old Carthusian Monastery of San Giacomo dates back to the 14th century and houses the Diefenbach Museum, with superb paintings by the German symbolic artist, many inspired by the beauty of Capri. The town’s heart stands in the small and stylish Piazzetta, where the town hall, the beautiful church and elegant coffee shops create a lavish atmosphere.

From Capri Town, those who like to explore the rest of the island can start several hikes. One of them goes to the hilltop Villa Jovis and Villa Lysis (2–3 hours), the first one dating from Roman times and the latter from the turn of the 20th century. Up there, the views of the rocky island and its craggy shoreline are truly magnificent. Another path leads around the south-western tip of the island, reaching the impressive Natural Arch (Arco Naturale) and other beautiful places like the Villa Malaparte, Grotta di Tragara or the beautiful panorama of the famous Faraglioni Rock Formation.

The more quaint and authentic town of Anacapri has its own particular treasures, beginning with one of the most enchanting little churches zi have ever visited. The Monumental Church of Saint Michael was founded in 1719 and is a splendid example of the Neapolitan 18th century school, with a unique mosaic floor that depicts the Earthly Paradise. Other interesting sights of Anacapri include the Villa San Michele with the Axel Munthe Museum, the Church of Santa Sofia, Cassa Rossa and more. There are several paths that start from here and explore the eastern part of the island, one of them reaching the top of Mount Solaro, the highest point of Capri. As an alternative, there is a small funicular that goes to the top from the town center.

One of the most memorable places on Capri is the Punta Carena Lighthouse that can be reached by bus or on foot. There is a path connecting the old towers and forts on the eastern shore (2–3 hours), from the lighthouse to the Blue Grotto. Another wilder path is known as Migliera and offers stupendous panoramas. The boat tour around the island has its own highlights, unraveling new wonders only visible from the sea. There are many grottoes along the coastline, the most famous being the Blue Grotto, a natural cave that can be admired on small wooden boats. It is unique due to the amazing shades of blue that the water reflects on sunny days.

I often found myself alone across the forests and orchards of Capri, surrounded by blooming trees and stunning views of the sea. I photographed as much as I could and as best as I knew, yet there is still the feeling that I could not capture the true soul of the island. Leaving the island under the most breathtaking sunset light was difficult, with the last rays gently touching the small boats of the marina.