Travel Truths
Is Siargao Really “The Best Island in the World?”
Only if you do it right
It’s no secret that The Philippines has become one of the hottest destinations in the world. Heck, Conde Nast named Siargao the “Best Island in the World” in 2019.
But traveling to see the best is only “the best” if you know what you’re doing.
A flood of affluent YouTubers, Instagrammers, drones, and color-corrected photos have already painted a deceptive picture of Siargao. And while it can be as lovely as you hope, it can also be a mildly challenging tropical destination if you’re not at least a little prepared.
So here are five tips to help you enjoy the laidback vibes and [insert synonym for ‘light blue’] surf of Siargao, Philippines—the *best island in the world.
Stay for (at least) 10 Days
Siargao takes time to really appreciate it. It’s a 45–60-minute drive from the airport (a shared van costs just 200PHP or $4), and it’ll take you a little time to get checked in and oriented. So depending on your flight, your first day is going to be a solid travel day. Not much chance to catch a surf or explore the island.
You also need time to get your surfboard and moped rentals sorted (more on both in a bit), and check-in times in The Philippines are…approximate at best. We’ve had to get on the phone with our properties multiple times throughout our month in the Philippines usually waiting another 30 minutes for someone to show up.
It might not happen to you, but it’s worth pointing out that you could lose a big chunk of a day right off the bat.
After that, some of the best things to do on the island—like the Magpupungko tide pools—are a bit of a drive from town. About an hour to be precise, and you need to get there at low tide to even get into the tide pools (there are lifeguards that kick you out when the waves get too high).
There’s also a sweet rope swing (30 mins out of town), mangroves (45 mins) and Pacifico Beach two hours away on the north side of the island. Secret Beach (30 mins south of town) is one of the better places to learn to surf, and that’s just a few of the places within a stone’s throw of where you’ll be staying.
Even if you’re staying near General Luna, there’s a sweet daytime disco dance party on Sundays, tons of island tours to Naked Beach et al, and numerous happy hours at Kermit’s, White Banana, and Loose Keys.
You see the problem already?
While most things in General Luna are (sort of) walkable you only have so many days to see and do all that Siargao has to offer. And the vibe on the island is decidedly chill. This is isn’t a place to try to cram an action-packed itinerary into three days.
A lot of travelers (usually surfers) find themselves in Siargao for weeks at a time. You don’t want to be the tourist that leaves right when you finally get the island, find your favorite places to eat, and (hopefully) make a few friends at happy hour.
Give yourself the time to actually relax instead of trying to cram in as many experiences as possible. Give yourself (at least) a few days to do freaking nothing but swing in a hammock.
You’ll be glad you gave yourself a little extra time.
Rent a Moped (300PHP = $6/day)
Gas is cheap (a full tank is about $2USD) and the island is super driveable. The roads are some of the best I’ve seen in SE Asia (and the US for that matter), and traffic is almost non-existent except for maybe a few random minutes near General Luna and maybe Dapa.
I snagged a moped with a surf rack for a few days, then learned to drive a motorcycle (with gears and everything) for a day before finally landing on a standard moped with no surf rack. Each has pros and cons, but there are a variety of vehicles available. You don’t need to be an expert to drive in Siargao either. Just balance and go straight. You’ll get it.
But that’s the nuts and bolts. A moped gives you the freedom to just hop on your bike and explore the island—which you should definitely do. I visited the same places a few times (Magpupungko and Secret Beach mainly) and I spend some time at Cloud 9 almost every day, but it’s still nice to see something new every day.
If you really don’t want to drive a moped, catching a tricycle is cheap and easy—it’s 20PHP or $0.45 USD to take a trike from Cloud 9 to General Luna—but aside from the novelty of your first ride, the tricycles aren’t the best way to get around.
You’ll probably have to wait for the tricycle to fill up with other passengers or pay extra to leave right away. And tricycles aren’t exactly built for speed. If you’re tall (like me) you’ll also have to hunch during the entire ride. But honestly, the reason I prefer mopeds is that it’s just way more fun to zip around and go wherever I want.
Embrace your ability to drive anywhere on the island for just pennies a km. Just try to avoid the police checkpoints near General Luna (I’ve seen three in the past week). They can pop up randomly and I’m not really sure what they cost if you get a ticket.
Eat All the Things (250PHP = $5/meal)
- Mama’s Grill — Easily the best bbq on the island. Pull up a plastic stool and dive into some great bbq. Also, they sell rum by the bottle. So that’s fun.
- Miguel’s Taqueria— Chicken burritos and delicious sloppy quesadillas, Nuff said.
- Shaka— Absurdly good breakfast smoothie bowls (and views of Cloud 9). Add a really good coffee for just $0.50 more.
- The Spotted Pig—Killer premium coffee (and speedy wifi) if you need a break to resurface online for a second. I’m writing this in The Spotted Pig right now.
- CFC—A truly perfect local fried chicken place north of Cloud 9 with the friendliest local pups on the island. Head north and chill with good good chicken
- White Banana—Happy hour sunset drinks away from the General Luna crowds. Grab a beanbag and sink into the evening.
The list goes on, but honestly, everywhere is great. And the best part is that it doesn’t cost a lot to eat well in Siargao.
Most of the best food in town *cough* Miguel’s and Mama’s *cough* costs $5 (or less) for a heaping serving of fresh deliciousness. That means, if you’re a budget traveler like me, Siargao isn’t the place to try to save a few bucks by cooking spaghetti.
Buy a few packs of instant coffee (10PHP each) to get you fired up in the morning and leave the rest of the cooking to the experts. Dive face-first into Philippino Adobo or sate your craving for Western food with a bevy of options. You honestly can’t go wrong here.
Stay Near Cloud 9 (1000–2000PHP = $10-$20/night)
Most tourists end up in General Luna at the southeast corner of the island (not to be confused with Dapa). It’s got a lot of accommodation and great restaurants, and people usually want to be near the action.
But there’s a lot more to the island than town.
General Luna is fun (go to Loose Keys if you want to rage), but there’s no actual beach there. Just fishing boats and shops. That means you’ll have to catch a tricycle to the beach at Jacking Horse (right next to Cloud 9) to lay in the sand. It’s 20 mins each way. Save yourself the commute and just stay on the northern end of the main drag.
Don’t get me wrong, you’ll definitely spend time in General Luna, to buy that $9 knock-off 15L dry bag (totally worth it), but if you have a moped you don’t need to pay a premium to stay “in town.”
Save a few bucks and get a cheaper place off the beaten track near Cloud 9—the road in town is literally called “Tourism Road. Or splurge for an actual lux place where you can see the surf.
The only exception is if you’re young (like under 25). In that case, hole up at one of the hostels smack in the thick of it to meet some new best friends to fill out your surf crew.
Speaking of surf…
Learn to Surf: Secret Beach and Jacking Horse (300PHP = $6/day)
Siargao is home to one of the best waves in the world—Cloud 9. But unless you’re a pro, you’re not going to go anywhere near that barreling monster.
The reefs that dot the island make learning to surf a little more challenging than the safe sandy beaches in other places, but that’s part of the charm. If you’re lucky, the slightly more challenging conditions (aka walking out on rocky reefs to the break) will keep the crowds thin enough to learn without the hazards of places like Bali, but don’t sweat it—you can do this.
Rent a board (it’s 300PHP or $5 a day or you can pay 200PHP by the hour), hit the waves, and have fun. Most of the waves in Siargao are either super steep and heavy (for experts only) or super slow and chill longboard/fun waves for beginners and lazy intermediates.
You’ll likely learn at either Jacking Horse or Secret Beach, so grab an 8-foot board and have fun. I used to teach kids how to surf in California, and I can say with confidence that those two breaks are on the bunny slope side of things. Aside from the rocky bottom (and sometimes a strong current at Jacking Horse) you can learn to surf in Siargao.
If it’s too windy at Jacking Horse (right near Could 9) try Secret Beach (it’s super good for beginners and intermediate surfers). If those aren’t working, head up to Pacifico (it’s a good drive, but hey, you rented a scooter, right?).
And if you need help ask a local or just pay a few more bucks for an instructor to shove you into the right waves.
The peak surf season in Siargao is during September and October. That’s when they have the big WSL competition. But the waves in Siargao are good from July to December. And honestly, you can find waves 365 days a year if you know where to look.
I’ve been loving the chill peeling lefts and occasional rights at Secret Beach, and it’s January.
And honestly, if you get too pooped to paddle, pay the 50PHP fee ($1) to walk onto the boardwalk at Cloud 9 and watch the real pros do it. You might just learn a thing or two.
Explore Siargao at Your Own Pace
The Philippines can be a challenging destination for new travelers and experienced veterans alike. The easiest way to have a great trip is to avoid the influencer hype, plan your kind of trip, and make sure you have the time and freedom to explore (or not!) at your own pace.
If you do all that, Siargao definitely has the potential to be the “best island in the world.” But so do a lot of other places. ;)
Have fun out there.