In The Footsteps Of Klimt And Goethe In Malcesine

Summary

Malcesine, a picturesque town on the eastern shore of Lake Garda, offers a blend of cultural history, natural beauty, and modern amenities, making it an ideal vacation spot for those looking to follow in the footsteps of historical figures like Klimt and Goethe.

Abstract

Nestled on the eastern side of Lake Garda, Malcesine stands out as a hidden gem compared to the more famous Lake Como. It boasts a charming pedestrian-only town center with cobbled streets, a 13th-century castle, and stunning views of the lake and Monte Baldo. The town's rich history is complemented by its natural beauty, with Monte Baldo providing opportunities for hiking and paragliding. Gustav Klimt and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe are among the notable figures who have been inspired by Malcesine's scenery. While the town caters to tourists with its shops and restaurants, it maintains a non-tacky and authentic atmosphere. Visitors can enjoy activities such as boat rentals, swimming in the lake, and exploring an alpaca farm on Monte Baldo. Despite some mixed experiences with local dining, Malcesine is praised as a tranquil and culturally rich destination that warrants a return visit.

Opinions

The author highly recommends Malcesine as a vacation spot, particularly for its unparalleled views and affordable prices compared to Lake Como.
The castle in Malcesine is not only architecturally beautiful but also historically interesting, with exhibits that include a natural history section and information on ancient shipbuilding.
Monte Baldo is described as an "alpine paradise" offering breathtaking views and a variety of wildflowers, with the suggestion to arrive early to avoid long lines for the gondola.
The author expresses enthusiasm for the alpaca farm on Monte Baldo, suggesting visitors buy the co

The perfect destination on the shores of Lake Garda

Lake Garda at Malcesine. Photo by author

When one thinks of the Italian Lakes, Lake Como is often the one that springs to mind. It certainly gets lots of coverage in celebrity magazines and as a movie location. Lake Garda however has all the beauty without the A-List price tags, and at Malcesine, on its eastern side, you will find the perfect vacation spot.

I came upon Malcesine by just browsing Airbnb looking for a nice waterfront spot to spend a few days. In fact the property I found was absolutely gorgeous with an unparalleled view of Lake Garda. I’m so glad I found it because this town has everything you could want!

A little piazza in early morning. Photo by author.

Malcesine is mostly pedestrianized with little narrow cobbled streets, which makes it wonderful to walk around, and it is very much a holiday place with shops, restaurants and gelateria catering to the tourists, but despite that it’s in no way tacky and has a lovely atmosphere. If you’ve driven to Malcesine, you can park your car in a lot just outside of the pedestrian area.

The centrepiece of the town is the castle. This incarnation dates back to the 1200s and as well as being really beautiful to visit it’s also very interesting. I loved the natural history exhibit (being a bit of a biology geek) and there was another great exhibit about how they used to get ships up onto the lake, just incredible!

Goethe visited Malcesine 1786 and wrote about it in his “Italian Journey”. There are memorials to Goethe in the castle and other references through the town. Climb to the top of the tower where the old bell is, the views are spectacular, but even a wander around the beautifully planted grounds is delightful. If you’re planning a wedding in Italy this would be a great spot!

A view of the castle from the Monte Baldo gondola. Photo by author.

Behind the town rises Monte Baldo. This stunning mountain is an alpine paradise. Hike up if you’re got the legs for it, or just take the gondola which leaves regularly from the town. If you are taking the gondola – get there early. It’s very popular, and if you don’t arrive at opening time you’ll be waiting in a long line, at high season anyway.

The trip up takes place in two stages. At the end of the ride you’ll arrive at an area with a couple of restaurants and bars and it is from here that the trails lead out. We chose to follow the trails that headed over towards the alpaca farm (get the socks, they are so cozy!) and along the way we saw a rich variety of wildflowers. I really felt like Heidi up there!

The views of the lake and of other far off snow capped mountains are amazing. It is just such a tranquil spot. If you want you can paraglide off the mountain but if your nerves aren’t up to that it’s fun to watch others soar off down to the lake. In winter this mountain is covered in ski runs – definitely worth a return trip for that!

View on Monte Baldo. Photo by author.

Back down at the lake there are lots of fun options. Walk down the hill past the castle to the pebbled beach for some sunbathing and swimming. Rent a boat from the harbour and explore the lake on your own. Diving off the boat into the lake with the mountains surrounding you is a glorious experience!

Gustav Klimt visited Malcesine in 1913 and painted the harbour view from a boat on the lake. The original painting was unfortunately destroyed in a fire but the harbour view appears almost completely unchanged from Klimt’s day. In the painting, a two masted schooner is visible, and a very similar vessel sits in the same position even now. I don’t think it’s the same one since the current one (Siora Veronica) only started sailing in 1926, but you can still enjoy a cruise in it! There are also ferries from Malcesine to other towns on the lake.

Views around Malcesine. Photos by author.

Malcesine hosts a market on Saturday mornings with the usual mix of produce, clothes and homewares. It’s nice way to start your day. To end it there are many restaurants and bars to choose from. I found the restaurants in the town a little bit disappointing but it could just be that we picked the wrong spots. If you know Malcesine and have any restaurant recommendations I’d love to hear them because I definitely plan to return!

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