avatarEva Schicker

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Panoramic views along Lake Thun at sunset. To the left, the famous pyramid-shaped mountain, the Niesen.

How I found my inner romantic traveling spirit in the Swiss city of Thun and its environs

Hidden places where gentility and adventure converge

Thun, a small city of about forty-six thousand inhabitants in the western part of Switzerland lies at the tip of its namesake lake. The color of lake Thun is a deep blue silver jade, the lake’s shores are flanked by dramatic alpine peaks and by the great mountains of the Eiger, Mönch, und Jungfrau.

The city of Thun and its fascinating lake greeted me with ultra-modern charm and old-world glory. Even a distant view of the alps during sunset hour was picture perfect. I was excited to be spending a few days in this amazing environment.

The alps at sunset seen from the Panoramastrasse by the river Aare.

Once a magnetic tourist town for European travelers seeking access to the nearby Bernese Alps, the city of Thun is now a melting pot of outdoor adventure seekers, native people gathering in cafés and river-side restaurants, and fleeting explorers on their way to high-altitude alpine mountaineering spots.

I considered myself tourist and knowledge seeker, flaneur and voyeur. And the city and its environs did not disappoint.

Thun itself is a beautiful medieval town with original wooden bridges. It is famous for its castle, whose foundation was built around 1190 by a member of the aristocratic family von Zähringen.

Thun Castle in the city of Thun, canton of Bern. Built in the 12th century, it houses the Thun Castle museum today.

In later centuries, ownership of the castle changed hands, and the castle itself was extended to its present shape.

Everything around Thun is worth exploring. I’ve traveled a lot in my life, seen many strange things. But never did I have a feeling of enchantment and delight of a romantic past that is seamlessly blending with contemporary ultra-modernization.

Here are four of my top most-beloved spots I visited during my all-too-short stay in the month of August:

1. For the romanticist: The angel fountain in the Bonstettenpark by the shores of Lake Thun

Enchantment abounds around Lake Thun. The marvelous summer residence by the name of Campagne Bellerive in Gwatt, once owned by the influential Baronne de Bonstetten, Betty Esther Charlotte Laure Lambert, holds many precious treasures.

In 1960, the Baronne de Bonstetten sold the estate to the city of Thun. Since 1976, it has been in use as the seat of the Music School of Thun. The gardens and the residence can be visited, and this beautiful gem of a fountain still remains from the golden days of the Baronne de Bonstetten’s romantic summers by the lake.[1]

The fountain in the park garden of the Music School of Thun, the former mansion of Baronne de Bonstetten, called Bonstettengut. The alps are visible behind the trimmed hedges.

I was smitten by the poetry of the simple round water basin, presided over by this baroque angel and dispensing water into the air. The alps are visible behind the row of hedges, the air is full of summer aroma, and the colors delight in soft blue and green hues.

I fell in love with this place at once. The aura that still remains from its past is strong. I vowed to come back here soon.

2. For the genteel adventurer: A journey on the steamboat Blümlisalp

The steamer Blümlisalp on an evening cruise passing the pyramid-shaped mountain, the Niesen.

If you love the water, you will love a cruise on this sleek, Belle-Époque-style steamer that glides along Lake Thun from tip to tip and back.

This double-deck steamer operates daily during summer months, making several stops along its route. Its elegant appearance on the lake was a delight to my eyes.

The steamer speaks imbues travelers with a timeless pleasure, that of watching the magical scenery pass by, like a movie, at any given moment in the journey. Everything is just so breathtakingly beautiful.[2]

3. For the space knowledge seeker: A visit to the Sternwarte Planetarium Sirius high up above Lake Thun at 3,500 feet

The Sternwarte Planetarium Sirius in front of the Bernese Alps in the village of Schwanden.

The Planetarium Sirius in the tiny alpine village of Schwanden near Sigriswil is a discovery like no other. It is nestled in the Bernese Alps at 1075 meters, or roughly 3,500 feet, above sea, situated on the main road. It is accessible by public transport, there is a bus station practically right in front of it.

On a clear night, it offers the cosmic discovery of spaces way out in the galactic universe. The telescope is one of the largest instruments in Switzerland!

The superbly narrated presentation of stars, planets, milky ways and galaxies awakened my inner yang to deepen my knowledge of astronomy. Did I ever imagine that the stars, sun, and moon would become part of my adventure? Well, they did, and I am grateful that a consortium of volunteer and private astronomers provided this magical experience to me.

The Planetarium Sirius has a great website, including a webcam transmitting gorgeous images of their views.[3]

4. For the athletic traveler: Swimming in the clear, blue-green waters of Lake Thun

A swim in Lake Thun on a hot August summer day with breathtaking scenery.

Swimming in a lake is my dream come true. While I love swimming in the ocean or in pools, nothing gives me more energy than diving into lake waters.

What is it about swimming in Lake Thun?[4]

Not only is this lake dotted with free public swimming access points, its waters are clear and clean. There are just a handful of motorized boats. Most boats on the water are small sailboats.

Jumping into this lake energized me with a jolt of cool glacial water, exactly what I needed on a hot summer late afternoon. The views are mesmerizing from any swimming access point.

Good swimmers can go quite a distance. Most swimmers bring a small floating device for safety.

Paddle boats also abound, and those seem to be the latest fashion of genteel water activity. I will try that next.

My thoughts

The region around Lake Thun is full of amazing discoveries. While I only had about 5 days to explore, my wishlist of day trips is chock-full. Not only does the area provide hundreds of trails and bike routes, there are funicular railways, some of them historic trains, going up many of the surrounding mountains.

There are dozens of worthy museums, castles, and churches to explore.

Not to mention the many delightful restaurants and food shops where delicious local foods are presented.

I am sure to go back to this beautiful region for a longer stay.

Links:

[1] Musik School of Thun (website in German only): https://msrthun.ch/

[2] Blümlisalp steamboat: https://www.bls-schiff.ch/en/lake-cruise/fleet/fleet-lake-thun/steamboat-blumlisalp

[3] Planetarium Sirius: https://sternwarte-planetarium.ch/webcams/

[4] Lake Thun overview: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Thun

All photos © Eva Schicker, 2023.

Travel
Adventure
Switzerland
Planetarium
Thun
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