MONTHLY CHALLENGE — TERRAINS
How Can I Not Write About Iceland?
Glaciers, Volcanoes, Lava Flows, Waterfalls, Ice Lagoons, Icebergs, Geysers, Thermal Pools, Intercontinental Rift
In November 2019, my daughter and I joined a tour in Iceland. We had planned to hire a car as my sister had done but she had visited in summer and the road conditions in November were enough to deter Stacey from driving. As it turned out — a good decision — as we left Reykjavik in our minibus carrying a luggage trailer behind, we were caught in a snowstorm or maybe a blizzard — I’m not sure, but it was blowing a gale and I couldn’t see anything but pure white. I was sitting beside the driver which is my preferred seating position and I was damn pleased I wasn’t driving!
Eventually, it stopped snowing long enough for me to take a few photos but all you can see is my reflection in the window. Not a great photographer! Reynisfara Beach was our first stop. The geology of this area was made up of black hexagonal blocks volcanic in origin — maybe basalt?
The shape was similar to those rocks I had seen at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. Pretty amazing, eh? But more was to come.
That glacier was nothing like I had imagined. I live in Australia so please don’t laugh but I thought glaciers were made of smooth ice like a skating rink. I was supposed to walk through this glacier with my daughter but unfortunately (or fortunately, as I may never have made it out alive) they didn’t provide me with the hiking boots I had ordered. I don’t own hiking boots — I have hiking sandals — not really suitable to climbing through glaciers. Yes that’s right, the group walked through crevasses in the glacier to reach the other side a fair distance away. It was after dark when they arrived at the van. Stacey described her experience as “awesome!”
I had an idea of what this would be like as I had seen my sister’s photos of this ice lagoon. The icebergs break off the glacier and float around in the lagoon and eventually make their way out to sea. My sister went on a boat up to the face of the glacier but that was in summer and the boats don’t operate in winter. I was fascinated by these icebergs. Look at the weird shapes and colours! I wish I was a better photographer.
Black volcanic plains with what’s left of a volcanic plug are typical of much of the icy terrain.
On the way to Vik, our overnight stay, we stopped in the middle of a moss-covered lava field that was created by the eruption of the 25-kilometre volcanic fissure over an eight-month period from June 1783 to February 1784. Lava and poisonous gases devastated the island’s agriculture, killing much of the livestock. It is estimated that a quarter of Iceland’s population died during the ensuing famine. The effects of this eruption almost killed off Iceland as a nation. It was a surreal experience walking through the lava outcrops.
Our first stop on the famous Golden Circle route was Skógafoss, a beautiful waterfall on the Skógá River about 60 metres (200 feet) high and 25m (82ft) wide.
The trees that used to grow in Iceland many centuries ago were felled to build the wooden houses people lived in.
This is Kerið a volcanic crater formed about 6,500 years ago. It is one of three volcanic craters in the south Iceland region.
We stopped at Geysir, a hot spring and geothermal area of the Haukadalur Valley. This is where the English word ‘geyser’ originated. Geysir was the name of the original geyser, which fell dormant in 1916, with one brief activity in 1935. Though Geysir is itself largely dormant, there are a plethora of hot springs and geysers in this area, including Strokkur. Strokkur has taken over the starring role.
Gullfoss (Golden Waterfall), was made up of several waterfalls cascading down, dramatically displaying the force and beauty of nature.
Þingvellir (pronounced Thingvellir) was the site of Iceland’s first parliament. This national park lies in a rift valley that marks the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. To its south lies Þingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland. You can even go snorkelling in the fissure between the two plates. I’d love to do that, but we had to be content enjoying the magnificent views over the rift valley and lake.
Here’s my Iceland collection if you’re interested.
I’m not the only one who loved Iceland. Linda Ng says it’s the best place she’s been.
And Ilam Padmanabhan writes a 5 part series on Iceland on his 10 day trip around Iceland.
