Grapevines & Olive Groves of an Italian Village
Rocca San Giovanni, Italy Offers a Bountiful Harvest
This month’s writing prompt on the topic of harvesting and food was intriguing. At first I just thought of local Fall finds in Southern Ontario, but had yet to make my way into enjoying the local Autumn experiences and foods to go along with it. I then thought back to my parents and their Italian Garden. An incredible bounty of lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, garlic, and even a few grapes on the vine. Fantastic memories of enjoying meals as a family with this fresh produce are treasured.
My Dad used to make wine every year as well (but had to buy bushels of grapes for that). In the land of his youth, there were vast fields of grapes to be harvested. They can be found right in the region they were born and raised — a small hamlet called Puncichitti in Rocca San Giovanni, Italy. This rural town is in the Abruzzo region of Italy, surrounded by mountains and sea.
I first visited the region for a long summer visit to see relatives and family friends as a 3-year-old, but clearly remember my subsequent visits at ages 9 and 15. Especially as a teenager and city girl, spending two months in a rural, small area was a culture shock. But I came to appreciate the open land, the fresh air, the beach trips, the warmth of the people, and the bounty of the harvest.
The olive groves produce a distinctive, incredibly tasty olive oil. The olives are harvested in the Fall, so I never did get to see the process, but I did savor the flavor. I have memories of my kind and generous Aunt slicing fresh local bread daily which I would enjoy with that delicious olive oil as a satisfying snack. It is hard to recreate that experience fully, but sometimes I can get a sense of it and bask in the simple, pure nostalgia.
I did have the chance to finally return to Rocca San Giovanni many years later in 2015, and the visit was brief (as it was combined with a visit to Rome-located about a 3-hour bus ride away) The trip to Italy in total was just over a week, so I am glad we focused on the two areas only in order not to feel too rushed. While it was a short 3-night trip to the countryside of my parent’s birth — it was moving and rewarding to return to this unspoiled, beautiful area and to visit the people I hold dear who remain, including new generations. It brought a renewed excitement to see those vast fields where the olives and grapes (along with potatoes and tobacco) grow in person.
That is what I remember putting real work into —stringing the tobacco and picking potatoes as a teenager. As for harvesting the grapes and olives, I am happy to know that this bounty exists to produce excellent-tasting wines and olive oil, and am grateful for those that work the fields with such dedication.
On our brief trip, we were fortunate to have a family friend drive us around to a few places, and one stop was an especially pleasant surprise for a wine lover like me. I didn’t realize there was a lovely sustainable winery called Cantina Frentana within about a 5-minute drive, right in town. This collective winery is in a beautifully designed space with fine-tasting wines (including the Montepulciano wines Abruzzo is known for) and many others, and a gorgeous lookout to the fields and town. An enjoyable visit on a lovely day.
The variety of food harvested in this region of Abruzzo, Italy is plentiful. It continues to be the lifeblood of many farmers in the area as it is passed down to new generations. I am grateful for spending time here as a youngster and returning to see it with fresh eyes.
During the visit, I enjoyed the incredibly fresh and simple food of the area (such as pizza slices with the freshest tomato sauce) and marveled at my uncle’s neighbor’s bright tree with countless juicy lemons. But the peak memories of the area’s harvest for me will always be the grapevines and olive groves of Rocca San Giovanni.