LIVING IN FRANCE
French Village Life Can Be Quaint & Charming, But Learning the Language of Moliere Can Make Your Brain Hurt
Some Days, All You Want Is a Bit of English Conversation

Once the excitement of moving to a new country begins to wear off . . . and it eventually does, the reality of living abroad sets in.
First off, the language.
Back in the States, I’d found it difficult to explain to garage mechanics what was wrong with my car — this proved to be a mere warmup exercise for explaining, in French, to a mechanic who spoke no English, that after my car was towed from a ditch — I’d backed up too far — it started making this funny little noise and maybe it’s . . .
I swear I heard him snigger as I walked away. A sound that needed no translation.
Next stop, the pharmacy where I struggled to understand what I was being told about using the prescribed eye drops, then more confusion at the post office and on to Intermarche where I smiled inanely (my default behaviour when I don’t understand) at a chatty woman in line who seemed to expect an answer to whatever it was she’d just said, then another smile for the check out girl.
And so it goes. Just a typical day, but exhausting and demoralizing.
Days like that hurt my brain. It balks, refuses to dwell any longer on whether a word is masculine or feminine. It no longer cares.
Neither does it want to consider why vagina is a masculine noun. And penis? Please, just stop.
What my brain needs after a trying day with the language of Moliere, what I need, what I’m desperate for, is a conversation in English. I need reassurance that I really am articulate and intelligent (most of the time) and able to string more than three sentences together.
I want to understand and be understood. To feel the joy of correctly pronouncing a word with more than two syllables.
I need to hang out with the ex-pat crowd. To laugh and joke with fellow Brits and Americans. To slip into the warm, soothing bath of familiar words.
But while the ongoing struggle with French is exhausting, it’s also part of the reason I came to France — not the struggle, I naively imagined I’d be parler français in no time flat. And as much as I enjoy drinking wine with my friend Sandra from Scotland and moaning about the indignities of old age and whether alcohol shrinks your pre-frontal cortex (please don’t tell me it does,) I’m aware that this wasn’t exactly the sort of French experience I’d imagined back in the States.
What I had imagined then was French village life as I experience it now with French friends and neighbours, invitations to family gatherings and a sense of being part of a community. Fortunately for me, much of this came about because I happened to meet Hélène, a dynamic and gregarious force of nature who, to do her justice, needs an entire post . . . which I will write one day.
I’d been reading notices on the village bulletin board and we started talking — her in halting English and me . . . well, doing my Moliere thing. She’d noticed my shoes, she told me later, and guessed that I liked to walk. She did too.
That was four years and many walks and conversations ago. Through Hélène I’ve met other French people in the village and when my daughter and her husband visited last month they got a first-hand look at French village life and, I hope, now know exactly why I’m so happy living here.


So to anyone contemplating a move to France, or any foreign country — if you don’t speak the language, keep trying. And trying, even when your brain rebels. While ex-pat communities are familiar and comfortable and a good way to make friends, don’t pass up the opportunity to fully embrace your new country — or you might shortchange your experience.
Below, the second story I wrote after joining Medium — I’d met Hélène for one of our walks around the village.
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