CHRISTMAS JAPANESE STYLE

Finding My Way in a City with No Street Signs

Following train tracks, and frequently asking for help

My partner, Beth, said she needed to focus on her company the whole day. I decided I’d take a long walk. Beth accompanied me to the main train station in downtown Kobe. She dropped me off at the Central Gate exit of the JL Line where there was a coffee shop. Then she hopped back on a train in the direction of her office.

Before we parted ways, Beth and I had decided we’d meet back at The J.L Line’s Central Gate between 5:30 and 6:00 pm.

Beth planned to go to dinner with her main tech employee, Serge, who had set up an AI program for students. She was glad I wanted to dine with Serge and Toshi a student, she chose for his tech proficiency. Toshi had been experimenting with the AI system. Beth wanted Toshi to give her and Serge feedback on their current AI program.

Beth had given me the challenge of finding two locations on my walk. The first was a long-covered shopping area called the Moto Mall. It stretched along blocks for nearly half a mile. I walked through the mall, stopping at second-hand stores, and coffee shops along the way.

The mall was all decked out for Christmas in early November. Canned Christmas tunes sounded throughout the mall. I heard only cheery songs, like Jingle Bells, and Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. Silent Night, and Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas were too melancholy I guessed

Christmas is not a traditional Japanese holiday. I suppose there are Christian Japanese who might focus on the spiritual meaning of the holiday. Otherwise, the focus seemed to be on the trappings of Christmas — shopping, decorating, and endless Black Friday sales. Shops were adorned with wreaths and lights.

Christmas in the US has also become more commercialized over the years. Buying gifts. Returning gifts. Days of building up to the event, followed by the letdown when it’s over.

Many Americans are concerned about the charity and generosity associated with the holiday season. They donate money to cherished causes, and collect food and gifts for families who can’t afford to celebrate the holiday.

It’s also Winter Solstice, honored in ceremonies welcoming the return of light, and the turning towards the New Year. The holiday season can also be a time for reflection for those who choose that path.

As for me, I was entertained by observing the new Japanese Christmas phenomenon.

I sat in a Moto Mall café for an hour writing about the superficial holiday season in Japan while drinking black coffee. The mall was getting ever more crowded. I decided it was time to find lunch. I walked a couple of streets down from the Moto Mall, where I discovered the second destination Beth had challenged me to find — Chinatown.

Chinatown streets were more crowded and lively than in the Moto Mall. Numerous booths sold take-out foods. Barkers were calling out to passers-by while waving signs in front of restaurants to attract diners.

I saw kids eating colorful, sweet, ball-shaped candies on sticks.

There were roasted birds and sloppy pork sandwiches. I chose a Korean restaurant that offered, simple tasty meals, featuring kimchee.

After lunch, I walked down and back through the Moto Mall two more times for the extra miles.

When it was time to return to the train station, I followed the train tracks most of the way. It was getting late. I arrived at the station when dark was falling. I finally remembered the name of the train company — the JL line. I hadn’t noticed earlier in the day, all the other train stations located close to the JL Line.

I had to keep asking for directions toward where I would be meeting up with Beth. Some people sent me to other train stations. I was confused until I crossed paths with a young man. He sent me in the wrong direction also, but he circled back, and walked me to the JL Line’s Central Exit.

Beth started waving the moment she saw me.

She and I embraced then waited for Serge, to find us.

We all decided to go to a fancy Vietnamese restaurant that night and started walking in that direction. Serge called Toshi to update him. Toshi arrived at the restaurant before us.

Serge and Toshi both spoke English. They switched back and forth between the two languages as they were getting acquainted

The Vietnamese dishes kept arriving. Serge and Toshi ordered meat dishes with bones. They were interesting and hard to eat. We also had an eggplant dish and other vegetable-based dishes.

At the end of the meal, our waiter recommended, crepes filled with bananas and nuts and cut into small, pizza shapes.

They were magnificent. We ordered a second plate.

Throughout the meal, Beth, Serge, and Toshi discussed the AI system Serge had engineered. Toshi had several helpful suggestions.

Beth tried to hire Toshi as a consultant at dinner, but he had too many projects he had committed to.

We all walked in the direction of the JL train station together. Serge was so inspired to improve the AI program, he used the walk time to ask Toshi more questions.

It turned out, I’d completed nine miles that day, or that’s what my phone reported. I was simultaneously exhausted and energized by the fabulous meal and company.

Eventually, I fell asleep.

The next day Beth and I took another train to the town, Utsunomiya, where I’d lived for a year when I was 24.