The City Between Mountains and Sea
Cape Town — the heart of South Africa
Thinking back at the time I spent in Cape Town I don’t remember much of the city itself. I remember mountains. I remember beaches. I remember lots of wind. I remember endless roads along the coastline. I remember passing an ostrich on the ocean road and tasting salt in the air.
That’s what I think of when someone mentions the capital of South Africa.
I’ve visited the city on the southern point of Africa twice. From the second visit, I lost all the pictures. Somewhere along copying them from the camera onto my tablet, then onto a USB-Stick and later onto the hard drive they got lost. The folder never made it onto the hard drive.
What I remember most from my second visit is that the whole cape was in full bloom. It was spring in South Africa and the mountains were covered in mostly yellow flowers.
I guess that would be a reason to go back there. To take new photographs and save them this time. To make new memories. To visit new places and those I’ve liked the most previously.
The city
I’ve never been much of a city person. I might have been shopping during my teenage years with other girls but I left that vibe soon. I don’t like shopping these days. I only buy stuff when something breaks.
When I say I like a certain city it’s never about buildings, shopping malls, or other tourist attractions. It’s because of the mountain next to the city. Or the river flowing through the city having a lovely shoreline. A riverwalk. Anything involving nature.
Cape Town is famous for its waterfront with numerous fancy restaurants. Lots of places to eat seafood and drink lots of wine. South Africa has one of the best wineries in the world so that is no surprise.
I remember walking through the streets of the city eating in tiny restaurants or taking a snack from a food stall. Traveling as a backpacker those expensive restaurants were not for me.
I stayed in a hostel in long street. That’s the party street in the city. I went out there a few nights. It was an interesting party scene. Locals and tourists were mixed up. It wasn’t easy to say who was who. Some foreigners have lived there for long.
The red bus
The famous hop-on-hop-off bus is also active in Cape Town. Three different bus lines are taking you on sightseeing tours through the city, the mountains, and the vineyards.
Both times I bought myself a ticket and used it a lot getting from one place to another. Exploring beaches, Parks, and city life. Sitting up there with the wind blowing through my hair while listening to the voice of a guide is a fun way to learn about the place.
Beaches
Just as much as Cape Town is famous for its mountains it is also known for the beaches. There are plenty of them all around the city and its outskirts and they are definitely worth a visit.
Endless beaches with soft sand and the cold Atlantic ocean hitting the coastline are a feature of the city. Take off your shoes and walk through the sand while looking out for seals, penguins, and birds.
The penguins
The African penguin is an endangered species only to be seen in a few countries on the west coast of southern Africa. Cape Town is known for spots where one can see them as a guarantee.
Beaches with white sand and crystal clear water are where they do live. The cape penguins or also known under the name of the South African penguin are very popular by tourists. Keeping a safe distance from the animals and leaving them in their peaceful environment is the rule I wish every visitor would be respecting.
Cape of Good Hope
The Cape of Good Hope is not to be mixed up with the Cape Agulhas which is the southernmost point of the African continent. The Cape of Good Hope used to be called the Cape of Storms referring to its stormy weather and sea.
It’s a wonderful place to go for hikes, explore the beauty of the Cape’s nature, and climb over cliffs. Especially in springtime when the fields are filled with flowers the Cape of Good Hope is every visit worth.
While driving down the ocean road on the way to the Cape this lone ostrich crossed my path. What an unexpected encounter.
Road trips
Several beautiful roads are leading along the coastline and cliff sides in the surroundings of Cape Town. Lovely roads with stunning viewpoints are a great way to see and explore the landscape of the Cape.
Take it slow, inhale the fresh sea breeze and save those memories.
Mountains
Cape Town is surrounded by mountains, hills, and cliffs. It’s a hiker’s paradise. Lots of well-marked hiking trails lead onto the famous Table Mountain but also several other peaks and hills.
You can hike all across the Cape. Especially the area around the Cape of Good Hope is lovely to explore. Pack plenty of water and get a map before you start.
On every single mountain surrounding the city, you will get rewarded with endless views across the sea, town, and the sky.
Sunset from Signal Hill
I never went to the famous Lions Head. A mountain peak. At least not to the top. Time wasn’t enough for all the adventures possible in the city and all the hikes I wanted to go on.
Just next to Lions Head is a smaller hill called “Signal Hill”. A famous spot to visit during sunset. Offering almost a 360-degree view over the city and the ocean you can take spectacular shots from here.
Or stand in a crowd of people surrounded by never-ending clicking sounds. Like with every other famous sunset spot anywhere else in the world. People come up here in numbers!
The vineyards
A must-see for anyone going to Cape Town are the vineyards. There are lots of them all around the city and there’s even a specific road that leads you from one vineyard to the next one. This is the one thing I didn’t give much attention to.
On a trip with the hop-on-hop-off bus, I went to a vineyard. I took a tour through the winery, tasted some wine, and learned a lot about the history of the place. I enjoyed being in the fields. Seeing the mountains.
But if I go and visit the city again I will spend at least one full day on the wine route. I’ve heard so many great things about it.
The Table Mountain
The town’s landmark is a mountain range. The Table Mountain is a popular tourist destination easy to reach. Several hiking trails of different lengths lead to the top but a cable car is also an option for those not keen on doing some exercise.
The first time I visited I took the cable car to the top because my travel companion wasn’t keen on hiking. The second time I hiked up despite the fact my friends didn’t want to hike.
But this time I didn’t care. I learned to do what makes me happy and don’t let myself get pushed off my goals by others. I made it a day experience and enjoyed the excursion a lot.
Anyone visiting the Table Mountain I recommend hiking up. The views on the way are spectacular. Some even better than the one from the top. The experience of hiking up there is worth the sweat and time.
Walking over the flat-topped mountain in the clouds while listening to frogs croaking in the reeds. Feeling the wind burn your face and tasting a bit of salt in the air. That’s what I remember.
Reaching the edge of the mountain when all of a sudden the fog started to lift and those views over the city and surrounding mountains appeared. Ocean to be seen from all sides of the top.
The cliff
I remember sitting on this cliff. I was sitting there for a while. Thinking back at the past six months that flew by. I was thinking about all the countries I traveled through. The people I met. The experiences I made. The lessons I learned and the mistakes I did.
I was thinking about my future as well. I was thinking of the flight I would take a month from then. I flight that would bring me back to the African continent and would change my lifestyle forever.
There was so much on my mind. So much going through myself.
I was looking down at my shoes as well. The only pair of shoes I had during my six month trip through Africa. The shoes that carried me across markets, walked through the mud in the Okavango Delta. A pair of shoes that meant so much to me.
All of this happened six years ago. A lot has changed. I have changed.
But the memories stayed.
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Anne Bonfert is a traveler. Photographer. Writer. Teacher. Skydiving instructor. Adventure enthusiast. Nature lover. And fell in love with the African continent.
