Explore the Majestic Beauty of the Western Cliffs of Portugal: Boca do Inferno and Cabo da Roca
Experiences from our Family Holiday in Portugal
Welcome to the tale of our beautiful road trip to Portugal. Check our family trip from the beginning:
We chose to spend a separate day during our trip to Portugal exploring the seashore region west of Lisbon. We traveled from Boca do Inferno to Cabo da Roca. I’ll give some information on these places as well as our experiences there.
Boca do Inferno, Cascais
Our visit to Boca do Inferno with three energetic kids in tow took place on a sunny day that initially seemed promising.
Boca do Inferno (“Mouth of Hell” in English) is a picturesque cliff formation situated to the west of Cascais, Portugal. Its name is derived from the turbulent ocean waves that vigorously collide with the cliff, entering a cave system and erupting through an opening above, creating a dramatic spectacle. We didn't see anything unusual when we were there, as the weather was sunny and the waves were almost flat.
For centuries, this cave has been a popular tourist destination.
Fun fact: One of the earliest examples of “actuality films,” titled “A Sea Cave Near Lisbon” (1896), was filmed from within the cave to capture the magnificent waves surging in.
Did you know about the Aleister Crowley Hoax at Boca do Inferno?
Aleister Crowley was a renowned astrologer, magician, and occultist.
In 1930, with the assistance of poet Fernando Pessoa, Crowley staged his own death, making it look like a suicide, possibly inspired by the ancient Greek philosopher Empedocles, who leaped into a volcano. Pessoa provided newspapers with Crowley’s suicide note, explaining its Thelemic symbols and translating the Portuguese text.
This was a publicity stunt rather than a real event, as Crowley reappeared three weeks later at an exhibition of his works in Berlin. The note also appeared to be aimed at irritating his lover and magical partner.
Our experience
As we arrived at Boca do Inferno, we were taken aback by the lack of proper safety measures. The absence of any railings along the perilous rock edges made it an unsettling experience, especially with children.
If you take a closer look at the photo, you might notice my smile appears a bit forced. In reality, I was feeling a bit uneasy, cautiously anticipating any unpredictable moves from the little one. When it comes to kids, you can never be too sure, and I tend to lean towards avoiding any chaotic situations, especially during our holiday trips.
Surprisingly, my hat met its fate here, despite the fact that there was hardly any wind. This incident triggered a flood of memories from my childhood, particularly a vivid recollection of losing my hat at the Black Sea when I was just 3 years old. I couldn’t help but wonder if this memory was genuine or simply a tale passed down by my parents over the years.
Cabo da Roca, Sintra
Exploring Cabo da Roca, the westernmost tip of Eurasia, was simply breathtaking. With wind gusts that appeared to defy gravity, this site lived up to its reputation as being extremely windy.
As I observed the waves crashing against the cliffs, it seemed as though the continent itself was slowly vanishing beneath the vast ocean.
Cabo da Roca (Portuguese: [ˈkaβu ðɐ ˈʁɔkɐ]) or Cape Roca is a cape which forms the westernmost point of the Sintra Mountain Range, of mainland Portugal, of continental Europe, and of the Eurasian landmass.[1] It is situated in the municipality of Sintra, near Azóia, in the southwest of the Lisbon District. Notably the point includes a lighthouse that started operation in 1772. Wikipedia
The view from this precipice was simply amazing, despite the difficult conditions. Unique plants that had evolved to flourish in the constant wind ornamented the area.
Our journey, though, wasn’t without its share of bumps. Our youngest fell on the narrow gravel walk, bruising her forehead as a result. The wind was also unsettling for her. Even when confronted with unanticipated bumps and bruises, these incidents usually add to the kids’ resilience and create unforgettable memories for years to come.
We were able to snap a photograph, and the genuine character of Cabo da Roca as an exceedingly windy site was evident in one of the shots. The picture captured the raw force of the wind, demonstrating how fiercely it blew past this westernmost point. The winds were probably blowing at more than 40km/h.
Following our photo session amidst the wild wind, we made our way toward the lighthouse and explored a bit of the surrounding area.
Historical Fun Fact: Cabo da Roca was known as Promontorium Magnum to the Romans and as the Rock of Lisbon during the Age of Sail.
A bit of history
The Cabo da Roca Lighthouse is situated 165 meters above the Atlantic Ocean on Portugal’s westernmost point. It is a historic maritime symbol. It began operating in 1772 and is the country’s first purpose-built lighthouse.
Over the years, it underwent various upgrades, including the use of acetylene gas and electricity. The complex consists of several buildings. It is now manned by three lighthouse keepers who watch the lamp and communicate with Ericeira.
Accessible via the Estrada do Cabo da Roca, the lighthouse offers panoramic coastal views and is a significant maritime landmark.
Spirituality meets legend
We met another traveler on this walk. He told us that Cabo do Roca was thought to be the location where the line between the terrestrial world and the realm of the supernatural blurred in ancient Sintra.
He also told us that at sunset, it was believed in ancient times that supernatural creatures would emerge from the sea’s depths to dance on the rocks. The children were astonished by this captivating idea, they stood in awe with their mouths agape for a few moments.
According to the legend, local fishermen would congregate here to view this strange show. It was believed that people who witnessed the Cabo da Roca dance would be blessed with good fortune and safe travels.
The windswept cliffs of Cabo da Roca retain an aura of enchantment and mystery to this day, reminding us of the ancient tales that have weaved themselves.
Have you been to Cabo da Roca or Boca do Inferno?
Do you like lighthouses and if yes, which one impressed you the most?
Let me know in the comments if you are planning a trip to Sintra or Cascais, and I can help you with ideas or answers to your questions.
Make sure you check out my series about our Portugal Family Trip.
Gabriela is studying to become a full-stack developer while being a mother of three small kids. This requires her to pay for some graduate programs and boot camps to gain experience. She is writing articles on Medium to inspire others and fund her journey.
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