TRAVEL | FOOD | GHOSTS | MONTHLY CHALLENGE

Daring To Dine at the Duke of Duckworth

Delicious food in St John’s along with a side of spookiness

I finally went to St. John’s, Newfoundland for a brief trip last month. The beautiful historic city is the most easterly and oldest in North America and is full of storytelling and striking scenery. It has some excellent pubs with haunted vibes, including the spookily located but delightful Duke of Duckworth. I overheard a couple on Water Street mention the name in conversation, and they confirmed it is the premier place in the city to get Fish & Chips. It can be accessed directly on Duckworth Street, or for a more dramatic slightly eerie entrance, by taking a walk up the stairs McMurdo’s Lane if arriving via Water Street.

The photo above was taken in daylight, and the lane still looks scary and daring to walk into. The same day we walked up the lane once darkness had fallen, only to be turned away as the restaurant was closing at 8 pm. For a brief moment, the mood around the doorway seemed a little heavy and mysterious. I read a fascinating article later detailing the ghostly tales of the Duke of Duckworth. Odd, unexplained things often happen here, and apparently, there is a resident ghost named Fred.

“Ghosts are all around us. Look for them, and you will find them.” — Ruskin Bond

After missing the opportunity to have dinner at the Duke, instead, we enjoyed a variety of bars and bites in downtown St John’s. There are plentiful opportunities to bar-hop in the city, with a very high capita number of lively bars with authentic East Coast live music (I highly recommend Shamrock City and Kelly’s Pub) We also found a more relaxing vibe with a talented singer doing a light rock acoustic set. Green Sleeves on George Street offered this cool but chill vibe. As for the view from the outside on this late September night, the entrance does look a little spooky and isolated in this photo though.

The next day, we were to attempt to go back to the Duke of Duckworth — this time for lunch. My friend and I were to meet up after doing some of our city exploring individually. The day was unusually warm for the season and the sun shone brightly. I walked and spotted these multi-colored Jellybean look charming homes featuring Signal Hill as a backdrop. There are plenty of gorgeous views in the city, this is just a small example as the story’s focus is to be spooked (even mildly) after all. I will share more about St. John’s visual highlights in a separate article.

As I head back to the city’s core, the sunny mood changed to eerie when I read the plaque near the commanding Romanesque revival Courthouse. Public hangings took place on the site, and the plaque told the story of Catherine Snow, the last woman hanged in St John’s in 1834. I believe her ghost still haunts the scene as she was a tormented woman. I reflected for a moment and wished I had fit in an in-person Haunted Hike featuring haunted city locations on this trip, and I wanted to hear the vibrant storytelling of tales like this. Last year I was fascinated by the online Haunted Walk event featuring St John’s. There are a variety of virtual campfire paranormal experiences in different cities worth checking out that educate, excite, and scare simultaneously.

I ended up back down on Water Street, so I would be heading up via McMurdo’s Lane, where the doors of the Duke could be reached at the top of the stairs. Oddly, the entire lane entrance seemed to have disappeared from sight, almost like someone was playing a crazy trick on me. I was sure I knew where it was, but I kept walking in different directions — getting confused and impatient — like something had taken over my ability to focus. I took a break and got my bearings. This unsettling aura I was shrouded in would not get the better of me. I found the lane and headed up the stairs. I was looking forward to a delicious lunch with locally sourced fish.

My friend awaited me on the covered patio. After a moment, a couple of bees decided to circle us, as if taunting and delighting in rattling our nerves. We decided to head inside the cozy pub that has the look and vibes of times long ago. Things were more comfortable there, as there seemed to be only friendly ghosts to worry about. We awaited our order in this mysterious, hidden pub. The Fish & Chips were outstanding. Newfoundland is known for its cod, and the flavor was incredibly fresh, delicate and so well complemented by the perfect batter. The portion was hearty, and the 1/2 salad and 1/2 fries offered an excellent balance to go along with the fish.

I remember between bites of the meal, being captivated by the mysterious aura that surrounded me in the place. While I didn’t picture seeing faces in the mirrors or objects moving around on their own — I did feel a bit shrouded by something I can’t put my finger on. The good thing is I still felt safe and content after enjoying a meal in this historic pub. It offered delicious food, great service, and a spirited and mildly haunting atmosphere — just one of many places in St John’s where ghosts may dwell.