
Culinary crossroads: uniting cultures at the dining table
Savouring diversity — the role of food in bridging divides
“Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” — James Beard
BBorn into a Caribbean family that reverently observed the Sabbath under the Seventh-Day Adventist banner, my early years were steeped in religious tradition. This gradually shifted towards a more Judaic observance as my grandmother aged, becoming more orthodox and adopting a non-meat diet. My grandma, whom I called Mam, was significantly ahead of her time; she crafted her own tofu and goat cheese as she perfected her vegetarian regimen to what I would describe as delicious. And this was amidst a region famed for its hearty meat stews — the very epitome of culinary rebellion in our meat-centric home.
Much later, in my twenties, and oceans away, I, too, adopted vegetarianism attempting to recreate a spectre of memories and a path to good nutrition. However, my lack of nutritional knowledge led to a near health crisis, compelling me to return to a carnivorous diet.
Long story — I am okay now.
Despite my Mam’s staunch vegetarianism, she was tasked with preparing meat-based dishes for her family, albeit with assistance. I know she did not enjoy this, as she often encouraged us to eat less meat, asserting it was a cause of human cancers. While I am not a medical doctor, her words resonated with me. In my eyes, Mam was never wrong.
Pork, for example, was deemed the pariah of our pantry, was unanimously labeled “unclean.” It wasn’t until my adolescent move to Canada that I encountered bacon. Its crispy texture ensnared my taste buds when I tried my first slice of pizza topped with it. The experience triggered an overwhelming urge to detoxify, a testament to my ingrained aversion. However, I confess there was a lingering sense of betrayal towards Mam.
She don’t eat meet — we’ll have lamb
Remember that scene in “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” when Toula relays to her family that Ian, her fiancé, doesn’t eat meat? The reaction is one of comical disbelief, as her aunt exclaims in shock,
“What do you mean he don’t eat no meat?”
The room goes silent, reflecting the cultural clash and the family’s deep-seated traditions. Then, in a moment that perfectly captures the blend of humor and acceptance, her aunt cheerfully declares, “That’s okay, that’s okay. I make lamb.” The scene brilliantly showcases the challenges and eventual bridging of different cultural customs and dietary habits.
In my own life, this scene resonated because I would later marry a Dutchman. This union introduced me to the relentless quest to find “the” pork dish that might sway my convictions. Despite my polite nibbles, only a generous flow of alcohol could ease my dissenting spirit. However, our paths diverged after twelve years and two children, reinstating the pork prohibition in my household. Perhaps it was the pork.
I jest!
The arrival of my next partner, with his blend of Eastern European and English heritage, heralded the return of bacon and cevapi to my fridge. Twelve years on, these have become reluctant staples of our weekend brunches, where I partake with a mix of courtesy and a silent vow to one day banish the beast for good.
High on what? — don’t think its for me
Ironically, it was after one such sumptuous and pork-filled brunches, prepared by my partner ( he should have been a chef), that I found myself engrossed in a random PBS show titled, “High on the Hog,” a moment that underscored the unpredictable journey of my culinary tolerances and the whimsical irony of life’s full circle.
I was hooked.
High on the Hog with Stephen Satterfield, a Netflix documentary based on Jessica B. Harris’ award-winning book of the same name. The book is a moving story of Black people’s survival and triumph via the food that has knit generations together and helped define the American kitchen.
It is an enlightening journey through African American culinary history, tracing the vibrant pathways from Africa to the United States. It dives deep into the heart and soul of Black food traditions, showcasing how they’ve shaped American cuisine and culture.
Through a series of intimate stories, expert interviews, and mouthwatering dishes, the series not only educates but also celebrates the resilience and creativity of African American people. It’s a powerful tribute to the rich, complex flavours and heritage that African American cooking has brought to the national table.
It also leaves you with a vivid understanding of the impact and significance of African influences on food in the Americas.






