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/figcaption></figure><p id="88a2">The road that wasn't a road but rather a trail got more challenging the deeper we drove into the park and all of a sudden there was this elephant that came out of nowhere.</p><figure id="bfb2"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*oTFugbaFWKbuQRB-RiOpgw.jpeg"><figcaption>Do you see the elephant? | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="b052">He was so close, David could feel his breath.</p><p id="9570">Ok, I might be exaggerating but that elephant came out of nowhere. And he wasn’t alone. There was another herd with him and they must have gotten just as surprised as us and were certainly not amused about our arrival.</p><p id="35aa">David didn't even stop but drove as quick as possible past the herd before they got a chance to charge at us.</p><figure id="31aa"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*V6HxmKql4Z6iLAsmPF9w0A.jpeg"><figcaption>We surprised them and they surprised us. Not a good combination. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="4716">Puh, that was close. And what an encounter while we still didn't make it to camp yet.</p><p id="e9bf">There, we first marveled at the breathtaking view across the flood plains before spotting the hippos on the island across the water.</p><figure id="c4f3"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*Z63vQWC8aBs6txcp-j5Nfg.jpeg"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure id="db07"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*U5rHgtuys0j3J7WPQl1vtA.jpeg"><figcaption>Hippos on land and in the water. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="39e5">While we were setting up camp these animals would move into the water and their sounds kept us on our toes. They swam past our camp and we shared some intimate moments keeping eye contact.</p><p id="02c7">An elephant was drinking water downriver from us and while we were having dinner I spotted two other elephants at the same spot.</p><figure id="8d35"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*zSdO7yU7C5q6eGpQwzYyWg.jpeg"><figcaption>A lone elephant coming to drink on the river. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="231b">More impalas were grazing in the meadows behind our camp and birds were flying above our head.</p><p id="62a0">Just before sunset, we heard some screaming. That was when a family of baboons moved into the tree just next to our camp.</p><figure id="68a0"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*0d8kUJvEg9xk43VKw9yiBg.jpeg"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure id="8f4f"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*G1-E1rLzHgJFcTJEqb2wiw.jpeg"><figcaption>Our neighbors: Baboons. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="2d0f">Now it was certain. We'd have to pack up everything before going to sleep. With monkeys in the area, nothing will be safe.</p><p id="82a2">And while David was constantly on alert checking for wild animals, I was flying the drone, taking pictures with my camera and enjoying the view.</p><figure id="0f63"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*8kzhmLJZ6NDu81n6J8Oevg.jpeg"><figcaption>Aerial view of our camp in the wild. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="4d74">Yes, we are wild camping inside a National Park. These campsites are written out but have no amenities. You also don't pay for staying overnight, you only pay a very small entrance fee to the park.</p><figure id="20b4"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*Q-6zRsmvTCCBE1QSjDi7RA.jpeg"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure id="6f92"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*FCSSfoKHhM_EtMDEZBtZUg.jpeg"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure id="6008"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*hLA6KV6oGqjgRLRGvJAeOg.jpeg"><figcaption>Drone shots of the park and our camp. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="142c">And yes, this is as wild as it gets out here. No fences. No barriers. These wild animals can walk around where they want. And just as David was taking a shower (we

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set up our camp shower underneath a tree), he got spied on.</p><p id="994c">A hippo, not even 5 meters from him was saying hello.</p><figure id="cecb"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*Mti7LahdRSvrfykvkb4SZQ.jpeg"><figcaption>I'm watching you. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="08ee">As soon as the sun disappeared I was hushed into our rooftop tent. I could feel the stress David was having. He said he can't guarantee our safety down here. So pack up and go to bed.</p><figure id="fed9"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*c16WAZlvyfwN0Flil1tb7A.jpeg"><figcaption>One magical sunset. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="65be">It's pitch black outside and I tried to take a picture of the stars from up here. Since I am not allowed to go down, I had to try to improvise. Without a tripod and solid ground, the picture got a bit blurry but still pretty.</p><figure id="0721"><img src="https://cdn-images-1.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:800/1*2bcGOmJIzJ0SI1i_pQ98RQ.jpeg"><figcaption>Sparkling stars and one shooting star including the reflections on the water. | Credit: <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert">Anne Bonfert</a></figcaption></figure><p id="7f4d">The African sky at night.</p><p id="d49d">I can hear more animal sounds than I can distinguish. Let's close my eyes and try to get some sleep.</p><h2 id="17ba">Here you can watch the video of our first three days in the wild:</h2> <figure id="fb9e"> <div> <div> <img class="ratio" src="http://placehold.it/16x9"> <iframe class="" src="https://cdn.embedly.com/widgets/media.html?src=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fembed%2FMYU2IFGy3QQ&amp;display_name=YouTube&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMYU2IFGy3QQ&amp;image=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FMYU2IFGy3QQ%2Fhqdefault.jpg&amp;key=a19fcc184b9711e1b4764040d3dc5c07&amp;type=text%2Fhtml&amp;schema=youtube" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" width="854"> </div> </div> </figure></iframe></div></div></figure><h2 id="34fc">More about the preparations and the start of our trip:</h2><div id="3d7a" class="link-block"> <a href="https://readmedium.com/crossing-southern-africa-from-west-to-east-is-the-plan-1c079d0fc939"> <div> <div> <h2>Crossing Southern Africa From West to East is the Plan</h2> <div><h3>Traveling from coast to coast — will we make it?</h3></div> <div><p>medium.com</p></div> </div> <div> <div style="background-image: url(https://miro.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:320/1*XxXtunvWQqPxhYkPLLQUAQ.jpeg)"></div> </div> </div> </a> </div><div id="3657" class="link-block"> <a href="https://readmedium.com/wild-camping-where-the-hippos-are-playing-in-the-water-92b7e7350f59"> <div> <div> <h2>Wild Camping Where the Hippos are Playing in the Water</h2> <div><h3>Our first day of the big adventure</h3></div> <div><p>medium.com</p></div> </div> <div> <div style="background-image: url(https://miro.readmedium.com/v2/resize:fit:320/1*nVB-iOKWw2l7cfAP83J1Ng.jpeg)"></div> </div> </div> </a> </div><blockquote id="045f"><p>Join my email list <a href="https://mailchi.mp/9dd74c10ac6b/signup-mydreamofafrica">here</a> if you would like to follow this journey and read more travel essays or sign up for the <a href="https://medium.com/@anne.bonfert/membership">Medium membership</a> to receive unlimited access to my and other writers’ stories out here (I will receive a commission fee in return).</p></blockquote><p id="643e"><a href="https://mydreamofafrica.wordpress.com/"><i>WordPress</i></a><i> | <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/Anne+Bonfert">Shutterstock</a> | <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mydreamofafrica/?hl=en">Instagram</a> | <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjXOWGPFOVRSXu9-F14313w">YouTube</a> | <a href="https://mailchi.mp/9dd74c10ac6b/signup-mydreamofafrica">Mailchimp</a> | <a href="https://www.amazon.com/-/de/Anne-Bonfert/e/B08PPD2Y41?ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_1&amp;qid=1668865050&amp;sr=8-1">Amazon</a></i></p></article></body>

SOUTHERN AFRICA: DAY 2 NAMIBIA

Camping Between Hippos, Elephants and other Wild Animals

And no, there was no fence between them and us

Credit: Anne Bonfert

Hippos are splashing in the water. Elephants came to drink on the beach less than one hundred meters from our camp. And I shouldn’t forget those monkeys in the trees. Yes, this is serious wild camping. As wild as it gets.

But let’s start this day by waking up on the Okavango River. What a night it had been. Mostly quiet. Until that hippo shook us awake. With the loudest sound, it could make. We thought it was standing right next to the car. That was how loud it was. But the creature was floating in the water.

We had some cloud cover in the morning and still enjoyed the camp. Only after breakfast did we pack up and head out again.

We started this trip with an epic wild camping spot and I didn't know if we could beat that. But I didn't know what was awaiting us the following night.

Our plan was to drive deeper into the Caprivi, that tiny stretch of land on Namibian soil nestled between Angola and Botswana.

We drove through smaller and bigger rain showers while massive thunderclouds were building all around us.

Rain clouds in front of us. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

Mudumu National Park was the destination for the day and it couldn’t have been further from my expectations. In a positive way. We saw more animals than expected, closer than I ever thought I’d be able to see them in the wild. Some of them may have been a bit too close for our comfort.

We were only 2 minutes into the drive in the park when I spotted a large elephant herd on the left. We stopped and watched them cross the road. Several young ones were part of the group.

Elephants with their offspring. | Credit: Anne Bonfert
I almost missed them in between the bushes and trees. | Credit: Anne Bonfert
A herd of elephants crossing the road. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

The fascinating thing was that these large animals made no sound. If I hadn't seen them in between the trees, we certainly wouldn't have heard them.

We continued the drive and eventually turned off the tar road. We stopped to deflate the tires and then drove through thick sand.

Impala antelopes were on our left. 3 female Kudus we could see as well as one zebra. And birds. Lots of them.

A female Kudu (antelope). | Credit: Anne Bonfert
Impala on the road and a blue shining bird against the backdrop of massive clouds building up. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

The road that wasn't a road but rather a trail got more challenging the deeper we drove into the park and all of a sudden there was this elephant that came out of nowhere.

Do you see the elephant? | Credit: Anne Bonfert

He was so close, David could feel his breath.

Ok, I might be exaggerating but that elephant came out of nowhere. And he wasn’t alone. There was another herd with him and they must have gotten just as surprised as us and were certainly not amused about our arrival.

David didn't even stop but drove as quick as possible past the herd before they got a chance to charge at us.

We surprised them and they surprised us. Not a good combination. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

Puh, that was close. And what an encounter while we still didn't make it to camp yet.

There, we first marveled at the breathtaking view across the flood plains before spotting the hippos on the island across the water.

Hippos on land and in the water. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

While we were setting up camp these animals would move into the water and their sounds kept us on our toes. They swam past our camp and we shared some intimate moments keeping eye contact.

An elephant was drinking water downriver from us and while we were having dinner I spotted two other elephants at the same spot.

A lone elephant coming to drink on the river. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

More impalas were grazing in the meadows behind our camp and birds were flying above our head.

Just before sunset, we heard some screaming. That was when a family of baboons moved into the tree just next to our camp.

Our neighbors: Baboons. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

Now it was certain. We'd have to pack up everything before going to sleep. With monkeys in the area, nothing will be safe.

And while David was constantly on alert checking for wild animals, I was flying the drone, taking pictures with my camera and enjoying the view.

Aerial view of our camp in the wild. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

Yes, we are wild camping inside a National Park. These campsites are written out but have no amenities. You also don't pay for staying overnight, you only pay a very small entrance fee to the park.

Drone shots of the park and our camp. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

And yes, this is as wild as it gets out here. No fences. No barriers. These wild animals can walk around where they want. And just as David was taking a shower (we set up our camp shower underneath a tree), he got spied on.

A hippo, not even 5 meters from him was saying hello.

I'm watching you. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

As soon as the sun disappeared I was hushed into our rooftop tent. I could feel the stress David was having. He said he can't guarantee our safety down here. So pack up and go to bed.

One magical sunset. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

It's pitch black outside and I tried to take a picture of the stars from up here. Since I am not allowed to go down, I had to try to improvise. Without a tripod and solid ground, the picture got a bit blurry but still pretty.

Sparkling stars and one shooting star including the reflections on the water. | Credit: Anne Bonfert

The African sky at night.

I can hear more animal sounds than I can distinguish. Let's close my eyes and try to get some sleep.

Here you can watch the video of our first three days in the wild:

More about the preparations and the start of our trip:

Join my email list here if you would like to follow this journey and read more travel essays or sign up for the Medium membership to receive unlimited access to my and other writers’ stories out here (I will receive a commission fee in return).

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Travel
Africa
Roadtrip
Wilderness
Wildlife
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