Baja Beginnings: My Wild 1952 Mexican Adventure
I was eight years old when my father bought a 1952 VW, T1 split windscreen, Westfalia camper van. His drinking buddies, Ed Damvanavitch and Bill Gilliam (I may be off a little on the spelling of their names, I was only eight) were the usual passengers. Having an icebox to keep the beer cold was the prime attraction for his choice of transportation and discussion.
I was never sure just why they took me along. Looking back at it now, probably because of Mom not complaining if they took me. In those days, before freeways, it was a long drive from Compton to the San Ysidro border crossing, especially with only a 40 horsepower engine. Once in Tijuana, the ice box was refilled. The road to Ensenada over the mountains was all gravel and rough.
Once in Ensenada our first stop was Hussongs Cantina Est. 1892. After 6 hours on the road, they needed refreshment. I was not allowed to leave the van except to pee in the outhouse behind the bar. Dad would bring me tacos and cold coconut juice. Late in the evening, we’d stop at a motel and I would sleep in the van while their party continued.
In the morning we would head south for a few hours and I’d listen to the funny stories they told about last night. I still remember the one about Ed making a bet he could pick up the bars piano by one leg and winning. Bill was an ex-cowboy and I guess quite good with a lariat, being able to lasso girls at the bar. They must have had a great time.
When reaching the dirt road to the Mueller Ranch, we would turn away from the coast and head up into the mountains. This is where the van was at its best. Not fast, but plenty of traction going up the steep road, we only had to get out and push a few times. Several hours later, near the peak of Mt. Diablo (10,000' elevation) we would arrive at Mike’s Sky Ranch.
High in the mountains, with pine trees and a trout stream, it was beautiful. It also had a swimming pool and rooms where where we slept. The bar was also where we ate our meals. I remember Don Donaldson and his wife were the managers and Mike and his two brothers were the owners. At that time Mike Leon was a government official for fish and game. The story was that he and his brothers had stocked the stream with trout brought up in barrels by mules.
I remember hunting quail by using chicken wire corrals and herding them with sticks. Fried quail for dinner is hard to beat. The bar and restaurant walls and ceilings were covered with business cards stapled to them. A place I’ll never forget.
Mike’s Sky Ranch is well known now because of the SCORE Off-Road Racing events (Baja 1000, Baja 500). At one point in my life while still competing in the SCORE events, I lived at Rancho El Soccorito, near San Quentin, Baja Mexico. I loved the people, countryside and the fishing on both the Pacific coast and the Sea of Cortez. More stories to tell about my life there.
Terrell Kaucher
