A Visit to Fusterlandia
A hidden gem in Havana, Cuba
In October 2014, a girlfriend and I headed off to Varadero, Cuba, for a week of sun and surf. The country is a popular sun destination for Québecers as it is a mere 3 1/2 flight from Montréal — and there is no time-zone change.
Most of the time, we blobbed on the ginormous and gorgeous beach at the Royal Hicacus hotel. The aqua-blue sea, a gentle warm breeze and a steady flow of mojitos and pina coladas while blobbing on a lounger were heavenly.
We had already agreed before our departure that a trip to Havana was a must. We had pre-booked online a private taxi; one of those beautiful old-style cars typical of Cuba, to visit the capital city.
In the end, it was a steal. For $150 Canadian, we had a magnificent one-on-one personalized trip that lasted 11 hours!
Richard was our tour guide, and Osman was the driver for the two-hour trip each way. Throughout the journey, we received a wealth of information as we passed lush but predominantly uncultivated countryside and wandered the historic streets of this must-see city.
What really struck us was the number of kids outside playing. There are benefits to not having the internet readily available!
We enjoyed a Mojito at Hemmingway's rooftop bar, soaked in the food at a family-owned restaurant and marvelled at the stunning old architecture present, whichever way you looked.
The old cars were a sight to behold. Thanks to the 1960 US embargo, cars couldn't be sold or bought without permission from the government. It was strange to see fancy cars; we only saw one Audi, a BMW and a Ford CRV. According to Richard, they were likely owned by government officials.
BTW, those old cars are solid beasts. We were rear-ended in the hustle and bustle of the city, and it was quite a vicious jolt. There was not even a dent on the car!
One area we wanted to visit was Fusterlandia, but our trusty crew had never been asked to take his fare-paying passengers there. After driving in circles for a while, he had to stop and ask for directions. A local jumped in the car with us to show us the way!
What a magnificent sight in this small corner of Jaimanitas, a rundown suburb of Havana. Created by José Fuster, a Cuban artist, he has decorated his home and neighbourhood with colourful mosaics since 1975.
Cuban artist José Fuster’s art is “naïve,” meaning he uses childlike crude shapes and bright colors in his untrained composition. His work has been compared to that of Picasso, a comparison that followed him in successful gallery tours across Europe. Source
His art has been described as whimsical and enchanting. I completely agree! Here are some pictures for you to enjoy:
Even the swimming pool was flooded with colourful tiles!
Everywhere you looked, there was colour and beauty. I could've spent hours in this place, taking in every minute detail.
It reminded me of Dr. Seuss's land at Disney — but way better!
The suburb was nothing special otherwise. According to atlasobscura.com, Fuster received permission to decorate his neighbour's homes and businesses and has revitalized the community as his 'kingdom' grows.
It seems the popularity of Fusterlandia has grown since we were there. Trip Advisor has amassed a lot of positive comments, so it is likely more touristy now than when I was there eight years ago.
I wonder, though, if they got to meet the artist like my girlfriend and I did. It must have been a non-event as I don't recall the moment and my travel diary simply states, 'we met the artist!'
My only advice is if you buy one of the beautiful tiles they sell there as memorabilia, do not put them in the dishwasher!! I did, and the plate came out bare. The artwork had not been set properly, and it simply washed off. I was bitterly disappointed.
If I ever go back to Cuba — I'm not sure I will as I've been there twice, and I like to spread myself around! — I would like to stay in Havana. A few hours was not enough to explore this wonderfully historic city, and it beats a beach any day.