A Manifest For Saving One Amazing Romanian Heritage: Neptune Baths
One Of The 7 Most Endangered Heritage Sites In Europe
Sheltered by mountains, guarded by beautiful skies, touched by sacred waters, here in Romania there is a thermal town with a long history: Herculane Baths (Ro: Băile Herculane).

The History of Herculane Baths
Well, we should first make a really big step back in time. For me, it feels like I’m going at the beginning of time.
Herculane Baths have been documented from the year 153 AD, but it is said that the basis of the resort was established somewhere in the year 102 AD.
It is the oldest spa resort in Romania, south-eastern Europe and one of the oldest in the world.
In the year of 1852, the Emperor of Austria, Franz Josef, considered Băile Herculane to be “the most beautiful resort on the continent” and his wife Empress Elisabeth of Austria, also known as Sissi, owned Vila Elisabeta.
Going fast forward to a year closer to our times, 1989, when Romania had the fall of communism, this historic resort — including the grand old Neptune Baths— was abandoned.
Now, coming back to the present moment, 33 years later the Neptune Baths (ro: Băile Neptun) are in a sad degrading state.
And at the moment are listed as one of the 7 most endangered heritage sites in Europe:
http://7mostendangered.eu/sites/neptune-baths-baile-herculane-romania/
A bit of hope for Neptune Baths: Oana Chirilă & Herculane Project
In 2017, a young architect named Oana Chirilă was impressed by the building of Neptune Baths and she decided to do something in order to save it, to save our history — a history that belongs to all of us.
So the “Herculane Project” was born and since then, they have tried to reactivate the Neptune Baths . Yet it wasn’t and it is not easy due to the legal situation of the property which is preventing them access to European funds.
Still, through donations, they managed to implement the first stage of the project.
According to the information on their website (which I appreciate for its transparency):
- they intervened in 12 areas at the roof level
- they sanitised the building — 220 m³ of debris and garbage were removed from the inside (over 70 trucks)
- they protected the majolica fountain
- blocked the access to the building
- and so much more (you can read all about it on their website: https://herculaneproject.ro/en/reactivation-of-the-neptun-baths/#tab-id-3).
And now I want to add a little more hope with my manifest inspired by this place filled with history, and amazing energy.

The Manifest
Finally, here I am.
The image of the rocky mountains, the cloudy sky, the river and the forest coming to life anchors me completely in the present moment.

I have arrived in this place that I have been carrying in my mind and soul for some time.
Now I wouldn’t be able to say precisely whether it’s a year, a life or several past lives.
Deep breaths.
It still smells like linden here. Ah, the sweetness of linden blossoms wafting through the air to cover the heavy smell of sulphur.

As for this cold summer rain, it cannot stop me from seeking, understanding, finding, encountering what is hidden among the ruins.
I let myself be held by the hand and carried slowly past the Neptune baths, I look fearfully at the aged walls that are about to collapse and I wonder what is happening with our history.

I go further and reach a sort of old center, some buildings are restored but in the middle stands a huge building that seems to have once been a magnificent hotel.
However, it is not the hotel that attracts my attention so much as the gentleman sitting in front of it. This old man fascinates me.

The image of him playing the flute, or whatever magical instrument he had, excites me and prepares me for what’s to come.
Deep breaths.
The smell of sulfur is more pronounced. The sun has almost come out of the clouds too.
I turn around.
On a sign next to that hotel it says: Apollo Baths — Queen Marie of Romania— a few other names.
I’m stuck at the second row, that’s all I can see.
50 meters up, I enter the Apollo baths.
Apollo Baths
I go down the stairs and the first room I see, the first face I recognize, the first tears of today are for her.
Queen Marie of Romania.

Finally, here I am.
I understand now.
Rereading the words of her testament on one of the walls that once watched her bathe, I feel her love for this country that in my times is renouncing its own history and its heritage.
“I bless you, beloved Romania, the land of my joys and pains, beautiful country, which you lived in my heart and whose paths I have known all. Beautiful country that I saw complete, whose destiny I was allowed to see fulfilled. May you be eternally abundant, may you be great and full of honor, may you be eternally towering among the nations, may you be honest, loved and skilled. (Ro: Te binecuvântez, iubită Românie, ţara bucuriilor şi durerilor mele, frumoasă ţară, care ai trăit în inima mea şi ale cărei cărări le-am cunoscut toate. Frumoasă ţară pe care am văzut-o întregită, a cărei soartă mi-a fost îngăduit să o văd împlinită. Fii tu veşnic îmbelşugată, fii tu mare şi plină de cinste, să stai veşnic falnică printre naţiuni, să fii cinstită, iubită şi pricepută.)” — Maria, Queen of Romania
Out of a deep respect and sincere love for this Queen, feelings that I do not seek to explain, I confess my dedication and involvement, as I can, as much as I feel, in saving the Neptune Baths and the buildings in this area.
I’m doing this by sharing this beautiful place with the entire world.

Would you add a bit of hope?
And I’m doing this by asking you to go on the website of Herculane Project (https://herculaneproject.ro/en/get-involved) /and find a good option for you to support their determination, their love for this heritage — a heritage that it’s not only ours as Romanians but it is also yours.
With hope in my heart,
the traveler with a romantic twist
Sweet note:
This summer, after I visited the Herculane Baths and wrote the manifest for Neptune Baths & Herculane Project, I also created this video that has been posted on my IG account.
The audio of the manifest (with my voice) is in Romanian but there are short films of the place which I think you’ll love to see.






