Monthly Challenge | Street Art | Bulgaria

A Bulgarian Village Like No Other

And the joy of discovering street art in places you least expect it

After a two-month hiatus from publishing on Medium, it’s good to be back with a monthly challenge contribution I’m so excited about, I may — for the first time — submit more than one piece on the topic.

I’m pretty sure I’ve said it elsewhere, but streets are open-door museums and galleries that give us a glimpse into and a sense of a place.

If you want to know a place, if you want to know what matters to its inhabitants, walk its streets.

Walking and slow travel, for me, go hand in hand, mostly because both allow me to experience a place in a more meaningful and engaging way. Whether that place is a new or a familiar one.

Case in point: as I’ve been spending a lot more time in my native Bulgaria the past 3+ years, I’m surprised to discover unique locations I’d have never known existed if only visiting my family for 2–3 weeks a year (as I used to do for about two decades).

In the context of street art, Staro Zhelezare is one such location.

Street art — graffiti or otherwise — represents an important character aspect of many Bulgarian towns and cities, but it’s not something you expect to see in any of the small villages dotting the country.

Unless you happen to pass through Staro Zhelezare, now known as a street art village. Located not far from the town of Hissarya, it is indeed a curious place to visit. I’ve passed through this village many times in my years growing up in Bulgaria, and it looked no different than the many other villages across the country.

It’s safe to say that’s no longer the case.

An initiative by husband-and-wife team Ventsislav Piriankov and Katarzyna, both artists, has brought a brand-new look to this small village.

Piriankov and Katarzyna run galleries in Poznań, Poland, but since 2015, they’ve been involved in transforming Staro Zhelezare into an open air gallery with the support of their students. Piriankov himself has roots in the village, which is how the location was chosen.

Most of the murals include images of politicians, celebrities, and historical/cultural figures from Bulgaria and the world, and all are created with the permission of the residents. In fact, it seems that some house owners who’ve allowed for murals to be painted on their walls/fences chose the images themselves. At least that’s what one of the residents I chatted with told me.

The artwork above, found on one of the church walls in the village center, features two well-known political figures, both of whom visited the village in the 60s and 70s. Can you recognize them?

Then there are the murals that show a curious mix of cultures and seem quite surreal.

I’ve now visited and walked the streets of Staro Zhelezare two times, and I’m certain I still haven’t found all the street art. Many are easily accessible and visible from the village center but venturing into the side streets is a must as there’s more to see there.

For example, I present to you the MoMA street!

Along the street, you’ll be treated to representations of artworks found in the New York Museum of Modern Art.

I’m not sure if the street has officially been re-named MoMa, but the sign above certainly claims that :)

Considering the many stereotypes people have of those living in small villages, this initiative certainly warms my country girl heart. I’m grateful my parents knew I’d appreciate visiting a place like this and mentioned the transformed village to me.

While working on this article, I found out that Piriankov and his students return to Staro Zhelezare every summer, so I may have to visit again, to see them work and learn more about the context behind each artwork!

I hope the initiative also inspires similar projects across other villages. Perhaps ones that encourage the creation of art that aligns with the context and history of the place. How cool would that be?

Kim Baker’s article on street art in Grenada, some found in small villages, is a good reminder of how often the most curious art pieces can be found where most wouldn’t think to look. Her article is also a highlight of why slow travel is the way to travel, if one can embrace it.

I also enjoyed CosmicDancer’s reflection on a few of her favorite street art encounters, and especially liked her insights on the diversity of street art and what it shows about a place.

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