48 Hours In Plymouth
Here’s the perfect weekend itinerary for your Devon city break
If you’re looking for a watery-themed weekend, then look no further than Plymouth Sound. The Devon city of Plymouth offers a full weekend of coast-themed entertainment!
As I prepared for my personalised press trip (it’s a hard life, but someone has to do it), I read up about some of Plymouth’s most famous departures: 1577 is when Sir Francis Drake departed here to circumnavigate the world. Then, in 1620, The Mayflower sailed off in search of a new life in America with the Pilgrim Fathers on board. And in 1831, Charles Darwin began his famous five-year voyage on The Beagle, which would lead to some of the world’s most amazing discoveries and, ultimately many of his observations that formed the basis of his famous On The Origin of Species.
A triumvirate of watery arteries collide here, creating this bustling port. There’s the English Channel to the south (ferry services to Brittany and Spain), the River Plym to the northeast (serving the Sutton harbour fishing district), and the River Tamar to the northwest, which is also the border between Devon and Cornwall, and home to the largest naval base in Western Europe.
The immediate area around Plymouth Sound makes the perfect weekend destination in its own right. The historic Barbican area has the highest concentration of cobbled streets in England, and is also home to England’s oldest working gin distillery.
Across the border (and therefore, the Tamar) Cornwall’s Mount Edgcumbe Country Park offers peaceful coastal countryside walks. And Europe’s largest collection of Grade I-listed naval buildings at Royal William Yard are thriving with restaurants, shops, and luxury accommodation.
Friday afternoon/evening
6pm — Royal Arrival
Not only are the apartments in the historic Grade I-listed naval buildings of Royal William Yard fantastically furnished.
Its westward-facing waterfront location overlooks Cornwall and the River Tamar. Which meant, thanks to the weather, my two nights here were topped off by some of the best sunsets I’ve ever witnessed.
These grand historic Sir John Rennie-designed buildings were once the Royal Navy’s victualling yard, or supply centre, for its vessels. The buildings are still labelled with their individual services (including Cooperage, Brewhouse, Bakery), but now they house tempting restaurants and bars, such as Prezzo, Wagamama, and Wildwood. It’s city chic, but on a relaxing waterfront.
Saturday morning
9am — Historic Barbican
This watery location means the best way to get about is by water ferry. Plymouth Boat Trips run a flotilla of services including the Barbican, Royal William Yard, and Mount Edgcumbe service, linking the key points on Plymouth Sound. My first trip takes me across to the historic Sutton Harbour, where I’m greeted by the Plymouth Sea Monster, affectionately known locally as the Plymouth Prawn.
Sutton Harbour’s quaint, cobbled streets are a treasure trove of shops and hidden gems. Look out for New Street’s Elizabethan Gardens — a secluded oasis of box hedges and fountains.
Although I’m teetotal, my morning tour of the Plymouth Gin Distillery is fascinating. Did you know that Navy Strength gin means the alcoholic content does not affect the flammability of gunpowder, should the former be spilt on the latter? I’m not convinced any decent seafarer would let such a tragedy happen, even in the roughest of waters! Don’t leave without your free sample.
Saturday afternoon
12 noon — Harbour Tour
I booked a harbour tour for the afternoon, but first I needed some lunch. The Boathouse Cafe is perfectly poised by the departure point, and my fresh crab salad was scrumptious. It’s local, too — over 15,000 tonnes of fish and seafood are landed at the adjacent Sutton Harbour, more than any other port in England.
It’s a short stroll down the jetty to the Plymouth Venturer, docked and waiting to take me on an hour-long tour around the harbour. The best way to see Plymouth Sound is by boat, and the humorous onboard commentary bombards me with a flotilla of facts about Drake’s Island, the River Tamar, and the Royal Navy dockyards at Devonport. I think my captain was Cornish, as he described the River Tamar as the dividing line between Cornwall, and the rest of the planet!
3pm — Tower Climb
Once I found my land legs, I headed for Smeaton’s Tower, which is the iconic red-and-white striped tower crowning The Hoe. The Hoe has stunning views across Plymouth Sound, and this is where Sir Francis Drake insisted on finishing his game of bowls before heading off to defeat the Spanish Armada in 1588. (There’s a history lesson if ever anyone needed one — always get your priorities straight!)
Smeaton’s Tower is shaped like an oak tree trunk because this is the strongest shape for a lighthouse. But it wasn’t originally built here. It was the third incarnation of the Eddystone Lighthouse, which operated between 1759 and 1877 on the Eddystone rocks, nine miles out to sea from Plymouth Sound. Ironically, this third incarnation outlived the rocks upon which it was built! The rocks’ erosion by the sea led to it being dismantled and rebuilt on The Hoe.
There are 93 steps (and some steep ladders involved) to the top, but it’s well worth the climb for the spectacular panoramic views across Plymouth and its Sound.
6pm — French Dining
From here, it was back on the ferry to Royal William Yard, where a table awaited in Bistrot Pierre. They were more than happy to cater to my gluten intolerance (fish cake, sautéed spinach, poached egg with a hollandaise sauce), and soon I was raring to go again.
I opted for the long walk back to my apartment, by circumnavigating the peninsula, using the South West Coast Path, through Devil’s Point Park, where families once congregated to wave farewell to loved ones departing on naval ships.
I even found the tantalising tunnel to Firestone Bay, once used to load ships, and the innovative, award-winning cantilevered staircase, linking the park with the Yard apartments.
Sunday morning
10am — Cornwall Bound
With Cornwall just the other side of the River from my waterfront apartment, it was obvious I had to cross the border. It was only a short walk to Stonehouse to catch the historic foot ferry across the Tamar to Cremyll, in Cornwall.
This eight-minute crossing takes passengers to Mount Edgcumbe on Rame Head, which is Cornwall’s earliest landscaped country park.
Spread out across its 865 acres, there are exquisite follies, tunnels, towers, and even formal gardens. Those on a city break in January can even spot some colour because the National Collection of Camellias here are in full bloom then. And between April and September, art lovers flock to Mount Edgcumbe House to view its fine furniture, tapestries, and Reynolds artwork.
Those preferring more modern pursuits can tackle the Segway Skills assault course.
1pm — Fish and Chips
Back in Plymouth’s Barbican, and Southside Street, you’ll find Harbourside Fish and Chips. You can’t come to the coast and not have fish and chips. (And yes, Harbourside does gluten-free fish and chips — I thought I’d died and gone to heaven!) This award-winning takeaway (they seem to collect awards by the net-load) also has an upstairs restaurant offering a range of seafood dishes.
3pm — Mayflower Museum
Whatever you do, don’t miss the Mayflower Museum. The viewing platform on the 3rd floor offers fantastic views of the marina and Sutton Harbour, and of the Mayflower Steps, near to where the ship departed from. This fascinating museum mixes history with fun facts for all the family.
Did you know that 16 million Americans can trace their ancestry back to the Pilgrim Fathers, or that the phrase ‘a square meal’ comes from the square plates used by sailors? Model boat enthusiasts will marvel at the scale replica of the Mayflower It’s so big the masts poke through the ceiling!
So there you have it. My flying visit to Plymouth Sound was a real water-filled adventure. Plymouth is served by excellent rail services, so combined with the water ferries and taxis, I was able to leave the car at home. You could say, my Plymouth weekend was a sound experience!
For more information go to https://www.visitplymouth.co.uk
